No, that means the oven sensor is the issue. Replace the oven sensor. That is the thin rod, that is in the back of the oven held in by 2 screws. The part # is WB23X5340 Tom www.applianceeducator.com/parts.htm

That would be a good idea. Usually an F3 is a sensor issue. There are places on the internet, where you could look up codes, and that is what it said for your model!! I bet Sears costed an arm and a leg!!! Tom ApplianceEducator.com

Found F3 code and was sensor, but the senosr read 1100 ohms as it should.
The limit switch costs ~$7 with AppiancePartsPro and $15 with Sears.
The fan and sensor Sears cost $217 with tax.

I was working a lot so thought I would save time by having Sears do it.
Was I wrong as it was over two months, ~20 phone calls, ~20 hours waiting for a Sears contractor to show up, two times Sears did not show, wrong diagnosis, and doing the final part installation myself.

My recommendations from this is
1) Do it yourself if you can.
I could have put voltmeter fused jumpers from fan terminal terminal to power return (do for each terminal) and see if the fan was bad (110V but fan not on) or no 110V (bad control or limit/thermal switch).
If I diagnosed it right it would have cost $7 and a couple hours instead of the nightmare above.
2) If some one wants Sears I would
A) Decide want cost is too high, i.e. buy a new oven before the repair
guy comes out. I told the tech I wanted some time to see if I
wanted a new oven and would call back. The tech did not write
anything down so when I said I wanted it fixed Sears had to have
another tech come back and repeat the process.
B) Don't use Sears unless it is a appliance they normally fix. Since GE
has its own repair service Sears does very little GE ovens (and
probably other appliances) so not parts on truck and 5-10 days for
parts. Plus do not know GE very well so cannot diagnosis problems as
well as GE. Not sure of GE costs though.
C) Don't count on the 800 phone call center knowing what is going on.
Those ~20 phone calls could have been around 6, but they are
clueless. If I had not made those extra phone calls it would have
probably been another month and a lot more missed appointments.
D) Do a morning appointment so if they miss the time they may only be
a hour or so late instead of doing another 4 hour window (6
hour would not be uncommon) a few days to a
week later

I put the limit switch in and the fan did not come on until 1.5 hours.
I have the oven at 350 degrees where we will (hopefully) cook the turkey at Christmas.
Is it normal for the fan to come on in 1.5 hours
When should the fan come on after it is at temperature?
The last time the Sears guy was here, I put the oven on after he left and forgot to check for about two hours and the fan was on.

Also the last Sears tech stripped the holes in the oven sheet metal so the limit switch was not mounted tightly.
If the limit switch is not screwed down tightly will it work properly?
The limit switch is normally open from the ohmmeter reading I took.
Does the fan limit switch have to have good contact with the oven metal case? (to sense the hot oven and close)
I also used larger screws to mount it since the mounting hole was srtipped.
Would larger screws with a more metal affect the heating of the limit switch and cause it not to work properly?

Thanks