A model number may help others help you.

Sounds like you have a defrost problem.

To confirm this remove the evaporator cove from inside the freezer so you can see the coils. If they are heavily frosted/iced over then you do have a defrost problem.

Here is a good site with basic fridge repair info.
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html

Cannot comment on the repair when it was new. I would need a lot more info.
There are a many things that can cause a unit to stop cooling.

Here is the parts breakdown.
Sealed system & mother board replacement parts for General Electric GSS25PSMFBS Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Give it a few hours to see if you get frost.

Next question is if the compressor is running?

Usually you can hear it also feel it vibrating and it should be warm.

If it is running then either the compressor is toast or you have a leak and am out of freon.

Both of the above are expensive repairs and usually it is better to invest those dollars into a new unit.

This is probably just a terminology problem but there will not be frost on the condenser (coils under the unit). Frost should be on the evaporator ( coils in the freezer).

OK sounds like it may be a problem with the compressor or it's start relay.
Check that the compressor is getting power.
Check the compressor windings.
You will need a meter for this.

Below are a couple links. The first has better general info, the second has better checking instructions.
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html
Appliance Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.