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I have a Jenn Air JCB2059GES. I recently installed a water filter system in my kitchen. I decided to route the filter to my Fridge. My ice maker was working prior to this. I decided that since I no longer need to use the Fridge PureClean filter, I would remove the filter assembly from the Fridge since it takes a lot of space up. I cut the 2 pex lines on the back of the Fridge and used a union to bridge them together. No leaks. Added Space. Everything is great, right? Wrong.
After a day I noticed my ice maker was not making ice. My water dispenser works perfectly. I noticed no water in the ice tray, so I poured some water in there, still no cubes. I disconnected the fridge for ten minutes to reset. Still no cubes. I then removed the freezer door and used a blow dryer to thaw the ice in the ice maker section. I checked the line for a blockage. I swapped the connectors on the solenoid valves. Water continues to work, still no ice.
It seems odd that all I did was bypass the system water filter and now my icemaker is no longer working. The solenoids appear to be fine since the water dispenser works when I swap the solenoid wiring.
I am now considering purchasing a replacement ice maker kit, but would like some advice. Perhaps there is something I missed.
Thanks for your help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Any way you can post a photo of your cut and splice?
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Rank: Member
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I'm not sure what this has to do with it. But here it is. Thanks. rldev attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
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My bad: I was hoping for something a little less close-up; showing which lines you actually cut.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: magician59  My bad: I was hoping for something a little less close-up; showing which lines you actually cut. Those are the lines that used to go to the water filter. As I said, I just bypassed it by creating the loop.
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Ok I defrosted the ice maker and pulled the front cover off the ice maker. A large piece of ice fell out. I tried jumping T and H and nothing happened. I then slowly rotated the the gear to invoke harvest mode. All the parts moved properly. No water at the end of the cycle though. I'm not sure if the water is supposed to fill when I manually do this. If the control board is shot, should the ice maker fill with water if I manually turn the knob?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Remove the valve but keep it connected to the water line. Place it into a bucket or large pitcher. Disconnect the output water line. Energize the solenoid that corresponds with the icemaker. If water flows through the valve, the problem is "upstream". From your description of the icemaker, I believe you'll find the icemaker is the culprit.
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Rank: Member
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I just tested AC Voltage on test points L and V on the ice maker control board. I am not getting anything. Is this a bad board? Or has somehow power been shorted to the ice maker? I also understand that on some fridges, the ice maker control board shuts down if the freezer door is open.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The very thin contacts in the icemaker head were probably damaged when you forced the White cog on the front. Here's the replacement icemaker. You still need to test the valve. To force a harvest mode on the icemaker, insert a jumper (14g-10g wire, stripped about 1/2 inch from both ends) into the holes marked, "T" and "H". The cog will begin to rotate. Let it rotate through about a third of its full revolution, and remove the jumper. If the freezer is cold enough, and the mold is cold enough, you may see a water fill at the end of the cycle. Yes, the door switch does have to be closed for this action. Part number: AP4135008
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: magician59 The very thin contacts in the icemaker head were probably damaged when you forced the White cog on the front. Here's the replacement icemaker. You still need to test the valve. To force a harvest mode on the icemaker, insert a jumper (14g-10g wire, stripped about 1/2 inch from both ends) into the holes marked, "T" and "H". The cog will begin to rotate. Let it rotate through about a third of its full revolution, and remove the jumper. If the freezer is cold enough, and the mold is cold enough, you may see a water fill at the end of the cycle. Yes, the door switch does have to be closed for this action. Part number: AP4135008
I was incorrect. I was testing power while the door was open. I had to cover light switch with tape and then test. I get 120VAC now. However, I can not invoke the harvest cycle. The ice maker does nothing. No sound or movement.
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