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sjdeades  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, December 8, 2010 5:48:55 PM(UTC)
sjdeades

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I have a Kitchen Aid KEYS677EQ1 electric dryer, it wont start all of the sudden. Had the thermal fuse tested at appliance store and tested myself, tested good. Replace high limit cutoff kit, which included high limit cutoff and high limit thermostat. Still same result, will not start. I can here timer running and the start button clicks when pressed and nothing happens. The light goes on and off with the door switch, so i think it is ok. I tried to jumper the start switch, but backed out after the first two wires i jumped allowed me to weld and about blinded me. So I took the start button apart and cleaned it with contact cleaner. Same result, I am stumped, any help would be great..
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 9, 2010 1:39:40 PM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KEYS677EQ1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="Blue"]Replace high limit cutoff kit, which included high limit cutoff and high limit thermostat.[/COLOR]
These only have an effect on the heating coil.

[COLOR="Blue"]Still same result, will not start. I can here timer running and the start button clicks when pressed and nothing happens. The light goes on and off with the door switch, so i think it is ok.[/COLOR]
Only way to tell for sure is to unplug the unit and then measure across the normally open contacts to see if they close.
I am assuming you have a meter as you said earlier that you had checked the fuse.

[COLOR="Blue"]I tried to jumper the start switch,[/COLOR]
The switch is actually a relay
THe relay coil is the PINK/BLACK to BLUE
The relay contacts are BLUE to ?. Drawing I have does not show a color.
Since you hear it click in (probably the relay coil), it sounds like the contacts are OK.

Unplug the unit and check from the TAN/WHITE or may be TAN to the WHITE on the timer.
When at off this should be infinite ohms.
When is timed dry mid cycle it should be 0 ohms.

Check that the WHITE wire from the timer down to the motor has continuity.

[COLOR="Blue"]but backed out after the first two wires i jumped allowed me to weld and about blinded me.[/COLOR]
Do all the tests with the unit unplugged using ohms as you now have proof that this method is a tad safer.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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sjdeades  
#3 Posted : Thursday, December 9, 2010 4:56:45 PM(UTC)
sjdeades

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I am not sure what white and tan wire you are talking about, at the back of my timer I have two tan wire connections and four white wire connections. I can email you a picture or post it here if need be. I checked all the contacts, and they all were coming up around 1600 to 1800 on my meter with the timer in the off position.

I also checked the voltage at the plug and between the L1 and N terminal and my meter was coming up with a 160V reading is that to high, I thought it was supposed to be around 120v.
denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, December 10, 2010 12:25:22 AM(UTC)
denman

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Something looks wrong with your meter readings.

Yes the voltage L1 to Neutral looks way too high.
Should be around 120 volts.
Also L2 to Neutral should be 120 volts.

Perhaps check a standard outlet for 120 just in case you have a meter problem.
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sjdeades  
#5 Posted : Friday, December 10, 2010 5:14:51 AM(UTC)
sjdeades

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I did do that and my other outlet read 160 also, so I assume it is just the crappy meter I am using. I did get the motor to run by making a ptch cord and hooking it to the white wire from the motor and to one side of the thermal fuse and then plugged in to normal outlet and motor started up just fine. I am lost on what the problem is. I do not se any burnt wires, tested the timer it checked good, checked the door switch three more times and it is good. Any other ideas.
denman  
#6 Posted : Friday, December 10, 2010 8:12:24 AM(UTC)
denman

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This should help
See the Attachement

Unplug the unit.
Attach one meter lead to L1 BLACK at the timer and leave it there,
Then work your way back through the system using ohms.
If you go to the BLUE at the Push to Start switch the resistance should drop to 0 ohms when the switch is activated.
IF OK
Go to the WHITE at the timer
Withe the switch activated you should read the motor windings a couple ohms.
If OK
Then the PINK/BLACK at the Push to Start switch and again you should read the motor windings.

If not the timer contacts (switch 4) are shot and you need a new timer.

I have tried to pick test points that are easy to get at and identify.
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