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grenstreet  
#1 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 7:22:31 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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Hi
I got the fridge running again but only by runing a wire through the back of the freezer and connecting it directly to the evaporator fan. the voltage drops when i connect the wiring from the cicuit. when I remove the wire itself and check the volt , it is 121v. I have checked all the wires running to the fan and all have continuity. I checked the connectors at the back of the unit and all are good (no corosion) I put a new adc board in and a new thermostat. the ony component I did not replace is the heater but it does show 35 ohms so I am thinking it is good. also the voltage at the wire that go to the heater is 115v and the other is 0v. I am really stuck here and dont know what to do next. PLEASE HELP
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 7:46:34 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: grenstreet Go to Quoted Post
Hi
I got the fridge running again but only by runing a wire through the back of the freezer and connecting it directly to the evaporator fan. the voltage drops when i connect the wiring from the cicuit. when I remove the wire itself and check the volt , it is 121v. I have checked all the wires running to the fan and all have continuity. I checked the connectors at the back of the unit and all are good (no corosion) I put a new adc board in and a new thermostat. the ony component I did not replace is the heater but it does show 35 ohms so I am thinking it is good. also the voltage at the wire that go to the heater is 115v and the other is 0v. I am really stuck here and dont know what to do next. PLEASE HELP



Grenstreet,

You've already repaired it, and, cheaply too.

The most likely situation is :

You've got a loose connection on the terminals to the fan motor, or a partially broken, frayed wire in the cabinet.

It will check fine when tested for a circuit (9 VDC) but, cannot carry a circuit/ voltage through the wire (120 VAC).

You can check all the wire connections at the wall, and back at the condenser fan connection, and tighten them up , or re wire or "hard wire" the connections.

You could also leave things as they are, just make sure you seal around the wire you ran, so we dont get warm air into the freezer compartment, and cause other problems.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
grenstreet  
#3 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 9:54:04 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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there is 120 volts at the terminal that connects to the fan on the yellow wire but when I connect that wire to the terminal of the fan the voltage drops on the yellow wire and increases on the brown wire which was reading 0 volts before the connection. what could possibly cause this is what i am asking. if there was a frayed wire in the cabinet or corosion somewhere why would I get a reading of 120 volts in the first place?:mad:
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 10:46:45 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: grenstreet Go to Quoted Post
there is 120 volts at the terminal that connects to the fan on the yellow wire but when I connect that wire to the terminal of the fan the voltage drops on the yellow wire and increases on the brown wire which was reading 0 volts before the connection. what could possibly cause this is what i am asking. if there was a frayed wire in the cabinet or corosion somewhere why would I get a reading of 120 volts in the first place?:mad:


Grenstreet,

With the motor disconnected, and with the meter probes on the wire, there is no amperage / voltage draw on the circuit and you'll read 120 VAC.

When you connect the motor into the circuit, there is an amperage and voltage draw on the circuit.

If you have a loose connection, frayed wire,etc., the voltage / amp draw of the motor will cause the voltage to drop below minimum requirements, because the wire cannot supply the voltage and amperage to the component properly.

Electricity must flow, just like water.

If you restrict a stream of water , what happens, The water behind the dam builds up and overflows the banks of the stream. the pond below the stream goes dry or shrinks, same thing applies with electricity, when the flow gets restricted by a loose connection or frayed wiring(stream and dam) there's not enough power to run the motor (pond).

If you were to cut and trim a piece of 14 guage stranded wire, you'd find several smaller strands(8 or 10 strands) of copper wire.

If somewhere inside that insulation all those strands of wire are broken except 2, you'll read a closed circuit on the wire, however those two strands of wire are not capable of supplying the 120, VAC under a load,it will carry the static voltage.

Did this help any ??

:cool: :cool: :cool:
grenstreet  
#5 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 10:54:25 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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yes you explained it very well. so all I have to do is find the wire and or connector thea is loose. that will take alot of time. If I leave things as they are meaning letting the evap fan run 24/7 on reg current what will happen when it tries to go into defrost cycle?
grenstreet  
#6 Posted : Monday, December 6, 2010 10:56:51 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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oh and another thing is that the voltage is varying as time goes by. yesterday I read voltage at 95 volts...today the fan would not even run because the voltage had dropped to around 45 volts. Does this tell u anything?
Joe / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, December 7, 2010 8:32:08 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: grenstreet Go to Quoted Post
oh and another thing is that the voltage is varying as time goes by. yesterday I read voltage at 95 volts...today the fan would not even run because the voltage had dropped to around 45 volts. Does this tell u anything?




Grenstreet,

Hold on, stop everything , PLEASE.

Apparently, I mis understood what you have done ?

How are you getting power to the fan motor ?

I was under the impression you had spliced the motor wire into a power supply wire in the refrigerator.

But, now it sounds like you running wires to an outlet ?

And the voltage problem you mentioned at the end of your last thread, was that voltage on the wires you installed, or did you reattach the original fan harness to the motor ?

In the mean time , I'll get a wiring diagram, if it's available, so I can review and direct you more properly.

:confused: :confused: :confused:
grenstreet  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, December 7, 2010 11:18:18 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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yes the fan is hooked up to an outlet via 14 gauge extension cord through the back of the freezer. the voltage I read was when the harness from the fridge is hooked up to the fan not the outlet. so far everthing is in order as far as temp in the fridge is at 36 and freezer is at 10 and the ice maker is working and water in the door is not freezing anymore.
Joe / APP Team  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, December 7, 2010 2:02:59 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: grenstreet Go to Quoted Post
yes the fan is hooked up to an outlet via 14 gauge extension cord through the back of the freezer. the voltage I read was when the harness from the fridge is hooked up to the fan not the outlet. so far everthing is in order as far as temp in the fridge is at 36 and freezer is at 10 and the ice maker is working and water in the door is not freezing anymore.


Alright,

whew, I was a little worried/lost,

I'll get a wiring diagram, and direct you to what and were the connections should be made, and we'll go from there

I'll get back to you ASAP
:cool: :cool: :cool:
grenstreet  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, December 8, 2010 6:15:53 AM(UTC)
grenstreet

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OK I will be waiting
and thanks for the help
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