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bwblazer  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 7:03:56 PM(UTC)
bwblazer

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my fridge was working when i went to bed worke up not running no lights nothing
what is going on
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bwblazer  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, December 1, 2010 7:11:30 PM(UTC)
bwblazer

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model ed22pwxaw10 checked power to end of pigtail checked power at 6 pin plug at bottom of fridge that goes to inside up.. all okay
checked power to compresser 120 vo;lts as well but nothing is working
inside lights do not work will not kick on
what do i do now?
denman  
#3 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 3:24:34 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here is the parts breakdown
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL ED22PWXAW10 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual it is them closest match I could find for your unit.
Some parts will apply and some will not.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/211453efe0913d4b85256ab00053d3be/$FILE/4321940.pdf

Something is very weird.
What wires are you measuring the 120 volts at.
That the unit is totally dead points towards a power problem.
Unless the 120 at the compressor is not a true reading and the light bulb coincidentally burned out.
If it was not for the above two things my guess would be that you are stuck in a defrost cycle.

If there is 120 volts at the compressor then the condenser/compressor fan should be running as it is wired in parallel with the compressor. At least I am 90% sure that it is.

Have you tried unplugging it and then plugging it back in.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
bwblazer  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 3:56:03 AM(UTC)
bwblazer

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thankyou for your response
i pulled a voltage check from pig tail plugins at each entry at bottom of fridge all good...
pulled the header assembly inside fridge has power also
i also had a serviceman out and confirmed this the only thing left is the defrost transister plate(not correct word ) it supposidly controls everything... however i dont even have lights inside fridge ...
the part is gonna cost almost 200 bucks is it really worth it..?..
evidently my model uses this type of defroster mechanizm rarely.. which makes it almost impossible to find a junk one laying around the shop.. as a test product
denman  
#5 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 4:12:43 AM(UTC)
denman

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I think you are referring to the adaptive defrost board (item 6 in Section 11).
If they are charging $200,00 just for the part you are getting ripped off.

I do not think that is your problem because you do not have a light.
Also if stuck in defrost there will not be voltage to the compressor.
Perhaps the light bulb is burned out, check it with a meter or replace it with a know good bulb.

As I said your symptoms just do not make sense.

Measure the voltage across the condenser/compressor fan.
If it is not 120 volts then I do not think you have 120 to the compressor and it could be the adaptive defrost board.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
bwblazer  
#6 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 4:22:45 AM(UTC)
bwblazer

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yes i have voltage to compressor an fan ..
red wire hot lead ground to fridge shows 120 volts
for both lightbulbs to go out at once?
i can push the ice lever as to retrive ice an it works the damper in the door ... thats the only thing that ive seen to have any type of operation
the adaptive defroster control; from whirrlpool is 108.00 overnite shipping 30 bucks local service dealer 189.00 installed thats pretty close to should i take the chance or not to repair it .. an sence the lights dont work either what if its not the a d c...? serviceman called me back last nite in concern an says maybe a ground somewhere is burnt or otherwise.
by the way he serviced 4 other units in my neighborhood as well same day
maybe power interuption damaged something?
im lost.!!
denman  
#7 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 6:03:36 AM(UTC)
denman

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Lets do one thing at a time.
I think the condenser/compressor fan would be a good place to start as it is a very basic device.

[COLOR="Blue"]yes i have voltage to compressor an fan ..
red wire hot lead ground to fridge shows 120 volts[/COLOR]
Are you saying that one meter lead is on the fan connection and the other is on the fridge's frame?
If this is the case you are not measuring it correctly.
You have to measure across the fan.

Depending how the house is wired you can get 120 volts from line to (earth) ground (fridge frame) but not have 120 volts from line to Neutral.

It is power between Line and Neutral that runs the unit not Line to Earth Ground.
Earth Ground is simply to ensure that you do not get a shock if a live wire in the unit should short to the frame.

Check the power at the wall plug.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
bwblazer  
#8 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 1:56:06 PM(UTC)
bwblazer

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i do thankyou for ur help !
im no electrician.. u just busted out the repairman though lol !!
i was checking the power from hot to netural he told me to check it hot to fridge wow !! anyway im going to run ext cord to unit to another part of the hse see if that helps then im going to try a reset on the defrost thing...how would i exactly check compresser to fan voltage, as u requested.. i do learn fast..
thanks again !!!!!
bwblazer  
#9 Posted : Thursday, December 2, 2010 3:57:39 PM(UTC)
bwblazer

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okay got the plug to fan and compressor disconnected checked for power while pluged in i have none at that connection
there is a red an white to compressor red white to fan one white wire comes from water splitter to fan /comp plug
now what .. any ideas from here
tks
denman  
#10 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 3:09:16 AM(UTC)
denman

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All I can suggest is that you check the wiring until you find where it is open.

The safest way would be to unplug it and use resistance.
Check across the plug prongs it is probably going to give you an infinite ohms reading (open).

Now tape one meter lead to one of the prongs and check it back through the unit till you find the open (we hope).
Since you have seen 120 volts referenced to ground I would start with the Neutral wire (White).
So you start by making sure the Neutral in the ine cord is OK and then work your way back through the wiring.
I hope I explained this OK.
If this does not give any results try it on the other prong.

Note that on some of the wires you probably will not be able to get to the wire itself so take a straight pin and push it into the wire to get at the conductor.
You can then put a couple wraps of electrical tape on the pin hole.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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