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TerryS  
#1 Posted : Friday, November 19, 2010 5:06:49 PM(UTC)
TerryS

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My upper oven bottom element won't heat up, the upper does work. We replaced the element with the lower oven element and it still doesn't work. Bottom oven works fine with either element.:confused:
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Rzilient  
#2 Posted : Friday, November 19, 2010 6:03:52 PM(UTC)
Rzilient

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Originally Posted by: TerryS Go to Quoted Post
My upper oven bottom element won't heat up, the upper does work. We replaced the element with the lower oven element and it still doesn't work. Bottom oven works fine with either element.:confused:


Terry, you didn't mention whether oven was gas, or electric. For gas double ovens. a common problem is half the dual gas valve can fail but the other half works just fine. This can happen if the small ceramic wire nuts have exposed strands, or if the nut does not fully cover the wires, leaving a bit exposed and when one pushes the glass-based covered wires to the back of the oven, the glass-based wire cover being stiff, may cause the nut edge to push into a sheet metal edge causing a short. If I had your electrical schematic, assuming the oven is electric, I could give you an answer since there has to be a switch in waxh igniter path that has failed. Hope this helps. Rz
TerryS  
#3 Posted : Friday, November 19, 2010 6:14:53 PM(UTC)
TerryS

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Thanks for the information. I have a copy of the wiring diagram, not sure which part.....I attached the pdf file. Thanks
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5995383394[1].pdf (595kb) downloaded 15 time(s).
Rzilient  
#4 Posted : Saturday, November 20, 2010 3:09:22 PM(UTC)
Rzilient

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Originally Posted by: TerryS Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for the information. I have a copy of the wiring diagram, not sure which part.....I attached the pdf file. Thanks


Terry, other than mundane disconnections at the bake relay it has to be bad relay since the common path parts work when you operate in Broil. Two easy ways to confirm are: 1) Disconnect power!! Then Use a #12, or 14 AWG wire in a short clip lead with alligator clips for connection to go across the relay contacts from the Red-white wire on the relay to the Yellow blue wire on the other side of the relay that goes to the bake element. When you re-plug the power it should begin to heat the element. 2) If you can borrow a decent Multimeter, set it for AC voltage of 300 V* )see note below), assuming it is not an automatic ranging type, and connect the meter's red lead to the Yellow-blue lead of the relay that goes to the heater element and the meter's black lead to ground. Plug-in power and turn Bake on. The reading should be zero, or low unless there is a return path in the non-operating mode which will give a high reading even though the heater will not get hot. A final comment is that the French do not show the return path for the relay coil which must mean it is directly to ground and take a look to make sure the wire to ground is not broken, or detached. If it's a direct solder to chassis make sure that the joint is not cracked, or has a dull look (low luster) implying a bad solder joint. If the latter, the joint can be made good by re-heating. All the best, (Tous les meilleurs) since it apparently is made in France, ...Rz
Note 1: As noted in edit title, Volt meter setting of 300V is O.K. for RMS meters but not for peak reading meters. Use 400V or higher settings to avoid pegging the needle.
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