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Matag Dryer Model LDE5005ACE
s/n 16266522MZ
Problem is that the heating element heats if the timer is moved out of the off position to anything except air fluff. The door can be opened or closed and the heating element comes on. When the timer shuts off the heater element also shuts off. If the dryer is in use and you open the door, the drum stops but the heating element continues to heat.
I do not believe the the thermal fuse or the high limit thermostat are at fault as I believe both of these components would interrupt current to the heating element.
Not sure where the cycling thermostat plays into the picture.
I suspect the timer is the problem but am trying to be sure before ordering this expensive part.
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Here is the parts breakdown. Replacement parts for MAYTAG LDE5005ACE Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.comIt will not be any of the thermostats. Sounds like a grounded element. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run all the time. Another possibility would be a shorted centrifugal switch on the motor. There are 2 switches one for the motor windings and one for the heating element. They are supposed to close when the motor gets close to operating speed. So if for some reason the heat switch is being activated all the time or it's contacts are welded together you will get heat with no air flow. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Rank: Member
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denman,
thanks for the qucik reply.
I have already checked that the heating element is not grounding to the heat shield. It is not.
How do I check the centrifugal switch on the motor? This is a possibility as the motor that is in the dryer was replaced with a used motor and the problem was discovered later that day. If I discover the centrifugal switch is bad the appliance service will stand behind it. (at least they have in the past)
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[COLOR="Blue"]How do I check the centrifugal switch on the motor?[/COLOR]
Remove one wire from it and measure it with a meter, should be infinite ohms at rest.
It is usually the switch with the two larger gauge red wires going to it. |
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Rank: Member
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Denman,
You Da Man!
The centrifugal switch on this machine has a whole bunch of contacts on the exterior but when I removed the 2 screws that hold it on the motor I discovered the cover comes off and you can see the contact points inside. There are 2 sets of points and the lower one was stuck.
This was a blue wire to a black wire contact. I can see the black wire feeding one heating element.
Anyway I was able to open the contact and lightly file some of the point erosion. I need to get a replacement switch but have first contacted the service guy who put the used motor in my dryer. This was an economy he offered since the motor was in the truck versus another service call after ordering the motor. I did ask him what his warranty was on the used motor! Waiting for a reply.
Thanks for the advice, you saved me buying a timer that would not have fixed the problem. As it happens, the "switch" is just about the same price as the timer!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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You are welcome
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause. |
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