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Michelle, Most likely the problem with your dryer is a bad gas valve coils (#13 & #14 on the diagram). Such repair is very inexpensive and your husband can save some $$$ toward a good Christmas gift for you. :) - The coil kit Part number: AP3094251
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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Gene
My husband asked me to ask, when it is cycling on the first or second cycle it doesn't make any noises, but any cycle after that it make a growling noise near the front left side, is that the coils not allowing the gas to pass threw ?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/8/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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Gene
We replaced one of the thermos and it was still not working, then we replaced the parts you said and it is working great. Just saved us money, THANKS SO MUCH. :D
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/13/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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Looks like I have a similar problem too. I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer, Imperial Series, Model #LGT7848AW2. It is gas dryer with a propane conversion kit installed. First, I can't find that particular model # listed. There is one listed ending in AW0 but not one ending in the AW2. On to the problem. It ended up not heating. I cleaned it all up insde then removed and reconnected the wire connectors and then it ignited and heated for a couple of days just like it should. Then the heat stoped again. I then replaced the Dryer Ignitor and Flame Sensor and got the dryer to heat just fine. Ran great for about a week or two that way and then no flame again. When I start it now the Igniter won't come on so no heat. All other seems to work fine. The push button starts the dryer, the dryer timer works, the drum rotates, and it will even dry the closes but with no heat. It appears that it just won't go into a mod to initialize the ignitor. Haven't tried anything else yet in so far as testing of the other parts. Just thought I'd ask. Going to test the other items with my multi-meter and see if I can find any other bad parts. Thanks in adavance. Mark
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Mark, You may want to check the thermal fuse (#7 on the diagram) for continuity. If it is open, then according to the manufacturer instructions, it has to be replaced together with the cycling thermostat (#9). - The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/13/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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[FONT='Times New Roman','serif']Thanks Gene. I've already ordered those parts yesterday, as well as the gas valve coils. Figured I might as well replace those while I'm in there. Parts should be in soon and I'll let you know how it goes. Also, the dryer is probably less than 7 years old and I purchased it locally from HH Gregg (Columbus, Ohio). Maybe a special number for one of the dryers made for them to sell. I'm really not sure why the model numbers differ, but the illistrations for the AW0 unit looks the same. Thanks for the help. Mark[/FONT]
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 11/17/2010(UTC) Posts: 2
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I have a Kenmore 70 Series dryer (model 110.78712895) that won't heat or turn off. I'm hoping it's a problem with the heating element and nothing to do with the timer (like I read from another user). Where can I find how to access all the parts I need to test?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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