Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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I have a Kenmore stack pair. Not sure of the model number. Only thing i could find was right inside the dryer door, 417.99980130 then below it W14223697. The problem is with the dryer side. The thermal limiter keeps blowing. I found that the limiter was bad then replaced it but it went out again after the dryer ran just a few minutes. Vents werent clogged or anything, no excessive lint. After it went the second time I took a closer look at things. The element is not touching the cabinet anywhere. I found that with the timer in the off position there is continuity between the heating element and the cabinet and then when the timer is switched to where the heating element is on there is more continuity, im not sure if it should be like this or not. I know a guy who has used parts so i got another thermal limiter and tried a different motor. I tried running it with just the motor (with out the drum and front of the dryer on, not sure if that makes a difference) and the selector switch on air fluff (element off). It ran for quite a while like that then once i turned the element back on the thermal limiter blew after just a few minutes. I have checked the wiring with the wiring diagram about ten times over to make sure its wired right and i couldnt find any bare wires or anything like that. Im pretty much stumped now.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: kjacobs6 ...I found that with the timer in the off position there is continuity between the heating element and the cabinet and then when the timer is switched to where the heating element is on there is more continuity, im not sure if it should be like this or not... Did you remove the wires from the heating element prior to this test? It must be removed. If you did not first time, remove then now and redo the continuity test. Post the results. Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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I didnt remove the wires for that. I did remove them to check if the element was grounded to the cabinet, which it was not. I know that if i were to remove the wires from the element and do the same test there wouldnt be continuity because the element is no longer in circuit with the timer. My question was more of if my timer is in the off or running positions should the element be grounded or not?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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If you do have the wiring diagram and can post it, it might help better.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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I finally got it. There was a bad motor. Apparently the original was shorted and it was causing the element to be on even when the motor wasnt on.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Good job! I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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