Thomas Jefferson once said "When you reach the end of your rope, tie a knot in it and hang on." Well, right now, I'm hanging onto that knot with my teeth.:D Here's my story.

About 10 days ago the Whirlpool top loading, direct drive washer starting acting up. It fills, agitates and drains with no problem but as it's draining and the spin cycle starts it makes a loud intermittent noise and the spin basket has a slow jerking motion. The spin speed never gets any faster. The noise is as if something is "trying" to prevent the spin basket from spinning but can't stop the spin completely.

So far I've inspected the coupler, all components are fine. They were replaced a year ago. Additional research pointed to the clutch so I replaced it. I'm sure the machine appreciates the new part but the problem persists. More research led me to richappy's sticky Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes, a fine piece of useful literature. I purchased the spanner wrench and successfully removed the drive block nut, spin basket and drive block. All three components have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected. They're beautiful. Also, there's nothing obstructing the spin basket.

I moved on to the brake assembly. I disassembled, cleaned and inspected all of the components but, be warned, this is where my questions:confused: begin:
[LIST=1]

The sticky says: "To repair the old shoes, I routinely grind down the shoe pads by 1/8 inch or less..." The shoes I removed have worn evenly and are about 1/8" thick, how much have they worn if they are currently an 1/8" thick? Should I grind the shoes at all? It sounds like my brake shoes are too thin if I should be able to grind off an 1/8". The brake housing has no rust and is not pitted at all.

Assuming I can re-use the old shoes, the sticky says: "...I put oil on the brake shoe pads..." What kind of oil do I put on the shoes? The rollers look good and they roll freely. Can I use silicone spray or is silicone grease recommended?

While doing all the above, and more, I gave the spin tube a spin just for the heck of it and to my surprise,:eek: I was able to replicate the same sound the machine was making without my assistance. Keep in mind that I've followed the sticky to the letter and didn't tighten the drive block nut which means that when I gave the spin tube a little ride, it was spinning against the drive block. Is it possible that my spin cycle problem, and noise, are due to a bad drive block?

So, if it's not the coupling, and it's not the clutch, and it's not the brakes, and it's not the drive block, is it the tranny?[/LIST]A few more things:
[LIST=1]

I appreciate you taking the time to read my posting, thank you.

I'll appreciate it even more if you reply with some good advice...related to my posting.

Remember, I'm still hanging onto that rope with my teeth and I can smell the delicious pie my wife is baking. Hint, hint: I love pie.;) [/LIST]Seriously, thank you for your time.
Ken

richappy,

I try to inject a little humor when I can but my comments regarding you and this site are true and well deserved.

The tabs look healthy, but you be the judge, there's a photo attached.

I'll use the silicone grease on the rollers. What kind of oil should be used on the pads?

Thanks
Ken

I was able to spin the coupler very easily.

As I turned the coupler clockwise, the clutch turned clockwise and the shaft turned counterclockwise. As I continued to turn the coupler, the clutch continued clockwise but the shaft stopped turning but eventually began to turn clockwise. I thought I noticed a point where neither the clutch nor the shaft turned. Is this the agitate cycle or does it confirm your suspicion of a bad nylon gear?

Can a bad nylon gear be replaced or does the entire tranny need to be replaced?

I may be grasping at straws but what should the inside of the drive block look like in order for it to grip effectively?

Thank you for your help.
Ken

RICHAPPY,

You were right. I figured that I had nothing to lose so I popped the cover off the tranny for a peek and at first everything looked fine. The nylon gear had all its teeth however, I could see debris in the lubricant and the lubricant looked like melted chocolate(could be normal color but I don't know). Another look at the nylon gear, from a different perspective, revealed that the lower portion of about 1/3 of the teeth were swimming in the lubricant.

You recommended a new tranny vs. replacing the nylon gear and pinion gear in my tranny. What's the reason for that?

Can just the nylon gear and seal be replaced without replacing the pinion gear?

If I go the replacement gears route, I'd like to put new lubricant into the tranny, what type of lubricant is required?

How do you feel about a reconditioned tranny?

Thanks
Ken