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abadfish66  
#11 Posted : Wednesday, August 13, 2008 11:16:52 AM(UTC)
abadfish66

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Here is what you need...Part Details - GE HEATER HARNESS DEF, part number: WR51X10101

Follow the directions exactly that come with the new heater...To get you by till you can get the part in there, you can remove the back panel of the freezer, and use a hair dryer to get rid of all the frost on the coils. This will return your fridge back to normal until you get the part put in.
repairgarcia  
#12 Posted : Thursday, August 14, 2008 12:32:37 PM(UTC)
repairgarcia

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Is it hard to change the heater, any soldering involved? Just want to be ready before the new heater arrives. Thanks for all your help.
abadfish66  
#13 Posted : Thursday, August 14, 2008 12:39:59 PM(UTC)
abadfish66

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Easy as pie, remove the back panel in the freezer section, the heater is at the bottom of the evap, 2 screws and 2 wires. All you do is unplug it. The new heater is abit different, so follow instructions and you'll be good. No soldering. Tools required...Needlenose pliers, phillips head screwdriver...
repairgarcia  
#14 Posted : Sunday, August 17, 2008 5:10:07 AM(UTC)
repairgarcia

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abadfish66, you are my appliance God. You definetely know your stuff. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
FLIPSIDE  
#15 Posted : Tuesday, September 30, 2008 8:14:43 AM(UTC)
FLIPSIDE

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I have the same model of refrigerator and I have a quick question. When we bought the house it came with this refrigerator, and I don't have any documentation to assist me.

Our problem is that the refrigerator makes a humming sound out the back near the ice maker. This sound is pretty annoying, and is very intermittent.

Any ideas on what this can be?
millerm77  
#16 Posted : Monday, October 20, 2008 4:41:30 PM(UTC)
millerm77

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I have the exact same problem as described. I pulled the circuit card out and walla there it was a burnt out piece of solder. I was able to get the solder to work for me. Trouble is how long will it last and what caused it to do that in the first place. I'm worried about a fire starting! Thoughts:confused:
millerm77  
#17 Posted : Monday, October 20, 2008 4:42:09 PM(UTC)
millerm77

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You are the man...this worked like a charm! You definately know what your talking about!!!!!!!
Radmanaustin  
#18 Posted : Tuesday, March 9, 2010 7:32:20 AM(UTC)
Radmanaustin

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abadfish66 said it was a bad solder connection on the back of the circuit board. Sure enough when I removed the board there was one solder connection looking a little toasty. I pluged everything in and touched the bad connection with a piece of wire and the compressor started running. :p Unpluged the unit and put my multimeter across the split sides of the bad solder joint and no connection so I decided to solder. I recommend removing the board from the frig to do a good job. Place it on the table with good light. I did a very quick solder job but I hear there is an art to this that you should google and read before proceeding. That is remove old solder with vacuum tool, don't over heat, clean copper with eraser, use a clean, smooth, presoldered iron tip. Reinstalled board and frig has never looked back. $300-$400 saved and it was done in a half hour plus one hour of research. Thank you abadfish66!
ChasW  
#19 Posted : Friday, October 29, 2010 6:23:00 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: abadfish66 Go to Quoted Post
Definatly sounds like the compressor relay on the board has a bad solder connection. to verify, you can pull the refer away from the wall, and remove the access cover on the back, behind that cover is a control board. you can remove the control board and on the back side you will most likely see a burn mark behind the biggest relay on the board. usually you can just resolder this and it will be fine, or you will need to replace the board.
I just wanted to say thank you for this post. My Model # GSS25JFMD WW 's compressor stopped running and the solder joint to the compressor's relay terminal on the control board was indeed the cause.

Using a relatively high heat setting on the soldering iron and some rosin core solder, I was able to re-solder all of the relay's connections including the one that so clearly had the burn mark and separation of circuit board trace from relay terminal.

Great post, very helpful.
Chas
mgueths  
#20 Posted : Wednesday, December 8, 2010 11:11:19 AM(UTC)
mgueths

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Abdfish66, excellent advice!!! Removed the motherboard and saw a burned pin. I soldered it and PRESTO!!! Compressor came back to life and life is good with a fridge that works!
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