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Is it worth Repairing? JVM140001 Options  Email this topic  Watch this topic  Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: JVM140001	Brand: GE	Age: 5 - 10 years
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manager3		#1 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 6:11:34 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 8/4/2008(UTC) Posts: 17		I heard that famous pop, and she was dead! I tested fuse, OK. I tested capacitor and diode, gone. Diode is consistant in price online but the capacitor is all over the charts. So I go and buy these ($125+/-) will there more surprsises in store pr should I continue testing to add it all up - if anything else wrong. Your help is appreciated. Frank
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abadfish66		#2 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 7:41:16 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620		What do you mean heard a pop and was dead? Did you lose power or just no heat? How did you test the diode and cap, in my experiance, a bad cap does not blow a diode, instead, a shorted cap will blow the fuse. A bad magnetron will blow a diode.
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manager3		#3 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 10:45:38 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 8/4/2008(UTC) Posts: 17		It was definately an electrical pop, all power throughout the unit gone. It's hot going in but from there nothing. Tested using Ohm meter. I sure appreciate your response.
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abadfish66		#4 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 10:58:52 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620		Check voltage going into the board, there is a connector at the bottom with a small black wire in it, check voltage there and see if you have 120 there. if you do take the board off, and look at the back of it for black marks
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abadfish66		#5 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 11:04:31 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620		You checked the fuse for 120 on one side and 120 on the other side? The best way to check this is to look at the wiring schematic and trace the power to find out where it is lost at. Most common places are the fuse, the board, and the flame sensor, the schematic will help you locate the flame sensor which is located behind the grille at the top of the cavity.
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manager3		#6 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 11:17:05 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 8/4/2008(UTC) Posts: 17		ok, I see where you're going. I will do that and get back to you. THANKS for the attention. GREAT SERVICE!
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manager3		#7 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 12:22:14 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 8/4/2008(UTC) Posts: 17		Ok. I have power to the board, both sides of the fuse. Is the sensor about the size of a dime with a black base that is held in with a ring? One of the pposts were broken on this part. Do you have a description of items on the diagram? Some of it is french to me........................:-<
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abadfish66		#8 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 12:27:06 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620		This is the cavity TCO "flame sensor"..... Part Details - GE Thermostat, part number: WB27X10195
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abadfish66		#9 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 12:28:03 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,620		What descriptions are you looking for? I'll let you know
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manager3		#10 Posted : Monday, August 4, 2008 12:33:06 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 8/4/2008(UTC) Posts: 17		will this kill everything?
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