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My dryer runs, but doesn't heat up. Opening it up, I find that the wires to the hi-limit fuse have blackened and in one case detached from the crimps. Obvious, that's a problem, but what would cause it?
There was good airflow out the back of the dryer, and while there was some lint inside I have seen worse.
The hi-limit fuse itself is measuring 0.4 ohms. Not exactly an open, but not a dead short either. I have ordered a replacement for that, the regular limti fuse and the thermal cycling fuses as precautions.
Thanks!
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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDET446AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.comWhen you refer to the hi-limit fuse do you mean the thermal fuse (Item 6 in Section 1) or the hi-limit thermostat (Item 10 in Section 1)? When you checked the resistance I am assuming that you shorted the meter leads together before doing the measurement just to be sure the meter did not have a zero offset. If it is a true 0.4 ohms then it does sound like the contacts are pitted which is why I think you may be measuring a thermostat and not a fuse. Sometimes it is just a bad connection/crimp from day one. heat is generated which makes the connection worse which generates more heat etc. etc. till the connection fails. Have you checked the power to be sure you have 240 volts between L1 and L2. |
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Yes, there are 240V from L1 to L2
Yes, there is an offset of 0.3-0.4 ohms on the multimeter - that's what I read with the tops shorted together.
All three elements, #2, #6, #10, measure the same, 0.3 to 0.4 ohms.
Yes, it is #10, the cycling thermostat, which has the burnt leads and is the apparent cause of the 'no heat'. Could it really take 5+ years for a problem with the crimping to show up?
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[COLOR="Blue"]Yes, it is #10, the cycling thermostat, which has the burnt leads and is the apparent cause of the 'no heat'. Could it really take 5+ years for a problem with the crimping to show up?[/COLOR]
Yes that would be my guess.
Due to the offset with your meter it looks like the thermostat's contacts are really 0 ohms so I cannot see that producing any heat and causing the connections/wires to fail.
Yes it could take 5 years. Perhaps you noticed the unit ran hot all the time. This would contribute to the problem.
Also the connection may have been good for a number of years and then due to corrosion or vibration started the heating problem.
I cannot be 100% sure about this but that is my opinion.
You will have to cut the wires back to nice clean copper and then replace the connectors. Be sure to get hi-current connectors.
I cannot find more info on this unit as I would like to know what the resistance of the thermistor should be. This may have caused the unit to run hot.
Item 6 thermal fuse will kill power to the motor so it is OK.
The 2 thermostats measure OK so I do not think they are causing your no heat problem. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  [COLOR="Blue"]Yes, it is #10, the cycling thermostat, which has the burnt leads and is the apparent cause of the 'no heat'. Could it really take 5+ years for a problem with the crimping to show up?[/COLOR]
Yes that would be my guess.
Due to the offset with your meter it looks like the thermostat's contacts are really 0 ohms so I cannot see that producing any heat and causing the connections/wires to fail.
Yes it could take 5 years. Perhaps you noticed the unit ran hot all the time. This would contribute to the problem.
Also the connection may have been good for a number of years and then due to corrosion or vibration started the heating problem.
I cannot be 100% sure about this but that is my opinion.
You will have to cut the wires back to nice clean copper and then replace the connectors. Be sure to get hi-current connectors.
I cannot find more info on this unit as I would like to know what the resistance of the thermistor should be. This may have caused the unit to run hot.
Item 6 thermal fuse will kill power to the motor so it is OK.
The 2 thermostats measure OK so I do not think they are causing your no heat problem. I have seen those wires burn't many times, and the reason they burn is because the air is not leaving the vent hose entirely. What you need to do is take the front off the dryer, and then take the blower housing assembly off. There will be two 5/16s screws on each side holding it in place. Once removed, you will most likely find a lint build up in the vent tube, that fits up against the blower wheel. Clean it out, and then put it all back together. Turn it on, and then go outside and be sure the air comes out good. The wire burns because the element glows to hot, and burns the wires. Very common. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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I didn't find a huge amount of lint in the housing, but replaced the connectors nad the dryert has been cranking away all day now. Thanks to all who gave advice.
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