Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/27/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Hi, I came home found the frig not cooling. These are the steps I took. Removed back cover and saw condensor fan running. Pulled connector off compressor and saw 120v there. (compressor warm) Plugged back in and the thermal relay would trip every minute or so. Put an amp meter clamp on one of the wires and saw it read 0 then jumped to 19amp then back to 0. Is it safe to say the compressor has a locked rotor? The winding were around 6 omhs and 2.5 ohms.
Thanks for the help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Replace your compressor start device that's mounted on the side of the compressor (AP3083556)
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/27/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Ok. I was only able to get a Supco 3n1 relay device on a Sunday. Hooked it up per the directions to the run and common pins on the compressor and it still drew 19 amps then overloaded again. Does this mean the compressor is locked?
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Your start winding is burn out or compressor stuck from varnish buildup=new compressor time/ new refrigerator. I always suggest a new refrigerator, replacing compressor would be more than $400.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/27/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Well, the wife will be happy now that she can get the latest style "French Door Fridge". WE WE. Thanks for the help.
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