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Originally Posted by: TK85  Thank you so much for the tutorial! I have never used an Ohmmeter and need to test my Kenmore Refrigerator model 596.79272993 defrost heater and thermostat, and I'm not sure I understand where to place the probes. Do I understand correctly that the refrigerator should be unplugged?
Here's a little background, I do know that the defrost timer works, and I just changed the heater and thermostat because when clicked into defrost mode the heater was not turning on (the coils were totally iced over with thick ice and snow). The new heater clicked on in defrost mode hours after I installed it (I heard the crackling and popping), but 2 days later no crackling and popping in defrost mode and when I opened the back panel the heater was iced over. I figured the best step now is to check continuity on heater and thermostat.
Thank you for any advice you can give me. It is very important to place the thermostat in the right place on the evaporator, so it can read the correct temperature. If the thermostat is not cold enough it would not close the circuit to the heater even if the evaporator itself is iced up. Make sure the thermostat is not dislodged. Disconnect the testing device at least from one side and attach the probes from both sides. The normal reading for the thermostat should be close to 0 Ohms (if it's cold enough). The heater resistance should be somewhere between 20 to 40 Ohms. Gene.
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Thank you for the tutorial on using an ohmmeter. Am I correct in assuming that the same procedure can be used for testing thermostats on a microwave? I have a Goldstar Microwave 1515B that stopped working shortly after being turned on. No power at all. The in-line fuse is good. There are two thermostats, one behind the control panel and the other above the oven cavity. Could my problem be a bad thermostat?
Could it be a bad capacitor? If so, can the capacitor also be tested using an ohmmeter?
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My older Amana belt drive washer fills, but does nothing at agitation time.
I can manually set it to final spin and the water empties, but no spinning.
I checked the lid switch for continuity.
I got a new belt.
Motor works fine.
It is a single part agitator, so no dog teeth to repair/replace.
Belt drive so no motor coupler.
So i think it is narrowed down to 2 items.
Timer or actual gear assembly.
I tried checking continuity for the timer, but doesnt read at all.
HOW can I check the timer?
The timer is $50-100,
and the other patr is the gear assembly with is $175, and I think I would need a new seal from what I read, so another $50+.
Just bought a used Kenmore 90 series for $200. It was inspected by the repair guy and stands by the work 100% for 30 days full money back guarantee.
Within a year or so he will fix it.
He also said that 3 years down tht eline if it goes he will epair for cost of the parts.
Again...
HOW can I check the timer?
or HOW do I know its the gear assembly?
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Happens to me occasionally...all I have to do is clean the igniter...food boils over or spills...must usually clean it well...toothbrush or the like, maybe a little alcohol on a q-tip
NOTE: I am able to stop rapid igniter by turning control knob to off...someone said they had to unplug?? that's odd..that's wiring..
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I have a Whirlpool oven that will not light. The top burners on the stove light with no problem just the oven does not light. I do not smell gas at all and I do not hear it trying to ignite. Help me troubleshoot so I can buy the proper part to repair it.
The model is SF315PEKW0. I have measured the ignitor for the oven and got 6 A. It does glow and light every once in a while but not consistent. What else can I try or what causes this issue?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: Gene I went across the 2 wires of the oven ignitor where it plugs in into the connector in the back of the oven. That is where I got 6A AC Gene. Is that the right place? IF so then what else can I check? OR do you think it is the oven ignitor itself?
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In order to measure the current drawn by the igniter the meter should be wired in series with the igniter and the control should call for heat. If the reading is 3.2 amps or less, the igniter has to be replaced. - The oven igniter Part number: AP3129373
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene In order to measure the current drawn by the igniter the meter should be wired in series with the igniter and the control should call for heat. If the reading is 3.2 amps or less, the igniter has to be replaced. - The oven igniter Part number: AP3129373
Gene. I am not quite sure I am understanding you right Gene. I did have the meter probes across both the wires pictured in the photo of the ignitor that you have posted. One probe one wire and one on the other. I would assume that is what you meant by in series. I read 6 amps at that point with the oven set on bake and according to what you wrote that is more than 3.2 amps.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: firefite44 I am not quite sure I am understanding you right Gene. I did have the meter probes across both the wires pictured in the photo of the ignitor that you have posted. One probe one wire and one on the other. I would assume that is what you meant by in series. I read 6 amps at that point with the oven set on bake and according to what you wrote that is more than 3.2 amps. If you'll Google "How to measure current in a circuit" you can find a lot of instructions and even videos. Gene.
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