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Search in the the washer section for "replacing direct drive brake shoes"
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You will need someone to hold the spin basket while you turn the drive block nut counterclockwise.
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Rank: Member
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Okie - dokie... the planets aligned, I bought beer, and a buddy came over and we got the nut off. The spin tube looked fine, and so did the drive block.
Since I had it apart, and I had previously bought a drive block, I went ahead and changed it - what the heck. Figured out to snap off the top ring, pull out the inner basket. It all went fairly easy.
I put if back together, and was nervous about the thing completely not working; so I sat and watched a full "light load" normal cycle. About as entertaining as watching a BJ and the Bear re-run, but I did it. The first spin it seemed to make a bit of noise and be a bit off, but it looked better after a couple of runs.
All seems well! The agitate cycles look normal, the spin is normal speed, etc. No odd smells of burnt motor, no fire, no smoke - yah!
Time will tell, as the thing always works for a few loads when I rip it apart. I will continue this post as time goes on.
Curiosity question - does the spin post or the drive block move up and down any time throughout a cycle, or do the two notches always stay together (i.e. the spin tube goes around and then to spin, it snaps into the drive block notches...)
Thanks!
-mt
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Spin tube never supposed to move up or down. Just make sure the drive block nut is on very tight or you will eventually have problems.
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Rank: Member
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Used the heck out of the washer, probably 15 loads, and it sounds great! The drive block has fixed it.
What torques me is that I was set to replace it, from previous internet advice, except that I didn't have the spanner wrench.
My logic was to call the repair man for $80. Since the wrench would already cost me $30, and a repair man would have one. For $50, I could have a pro come and truly diagnose it as the drive block, and have him change it. That way, if he didn't believe it to be the drive block, I would be ahead. So, the guy shows up, took off the outside of the washer, spun the drum manually a few times and stated that it wasn't the drive block - it was the brake or clutch. He essentially threw a red herring at me, charged me $80, and left - jerk! He said it would be another $250 to come back with the right parts. He was fortunately nice enough to tell me how to change it myself, which led me down the path I took - finding out the guy was an idiot.
Upon his advice, I spent all kinds of time looking at the brake and clutch, and could see that there was nothing wrong with it!!
You guys steered me right. EVERYONE BUY YOUR PARTS HERE!!!! What other site has breakdown information for your appliance for free, and the best advice in the world!! Support this site - I bought my drive block here!
Thanks a million!!!
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I am proud to say that most people, including me, try to save money and time for the people writing in and feel good when this happens.
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Thanks Richappy - you are awesome!!!
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Originally Posted by: mtreu  I finagled a spanner wrench to check the drive block. Rookie question - when I turn the spanner wrench it turns the entire basket. How do I lock the basket in place so I can really reef on the nut on the drive block to loosen it?
and...
richappy - I unfortunately believe you might be right about the transmission plastic. I entered "replacing direct drive brake shoes" in the search to see the post you are referring to, and it bring up several posts that really don't sound related. Can you be more specific on the post?
After I get the nut off...
1) I'm going to change the drive block, since I already bought one before this expedition.
2) If that doesn't fix it, and the spin tube teeth look okay, I am going to have to believe that you are correct.
If I stop the spin cycle that is making the thump thump thump noises, I can manually turn the drum and feel/hear it "catch", as you are referring to.
Someone tell me how to lock the tub and I'm on to the next step!!!
Thanks a million all of you! If you need a computer or arcade game fixed, let me know - I owe you! Have you solved the brake lockup problem yet? I have the same issue on my Kenmore 2003 Elite washer. Use the spanner wrench and hit the arms with a hammer in a counter clockwise direction. The nut will come loose this way. It will act as an impact wrench like one does when taking off the lug nuts of a car wheel when the wheel is not on the ground to hold it from turning.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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For Neill, the article is a sticky above "replacing direct drive WASHER brake shoes"
If you have a thumping sound while the basket is spinning, you have worn tabs on top of the spin tube, the item that goes in the drive block. One solution for this is to file the tabs to get rid of the ramp on each tab.
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