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Replaced the igniter, oven came on twice, worked for about an hour then cut off, checked the thermostat/controller, have 119 volts in and out ( out when turned on ) have 119 on one side of the igniter going through to the saftey valve, nothing on the other side of the saftey valve. Could the saftey valve be bad? can't get my hands on a wiring diagram to check where it goes from the saftey valve?
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Originally Posted by: jssncaz  Replaced the igniter, oven came on twice, worked for about an hour then cut off, checked the thermostat/controller, have 119 volts in and out ( out when turned on ) have 119 on one side of the igniter going through to the saftey valve, nothing on the other side of the saftey valve. Could the saftey valve be bad? can't get my hands on a wiring diagram to check where it goes from the saftey valve? JS, Apparently, your ignition system is different than I remember or am aware of. It does sound like you're on the right track, The power comes out of the clock or thermostat (so your control is OK) Goes into the igniter, the resistant of the igniter should drop the voltage to 2.5 to 3 volts, the igniter should draw 2.5 to 3 amps if it is not weak or broken.Then goes to one side of the safety valve. At the safety valve, you have voltage(2.5 to 3 VAC) into the bimetal switch, (if voltage and amps are in range the bimetal warps and opens the valve to release the gas). The other terminal on the safety valve is usually attached to the neutral leg of the wire harness. You should probably recheck the voltage to the safety valve, and if possible check the amperage draw when the igniter is glowing. I think you'll find you may have a loose connection or a bad safety valve. Good Luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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