Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
The item is a GE free standing range (oven with 4 burners). It was working fine until today when the oven will not warm up at all. The burners work fine. And the digital keypad works fine as well. There are no error codes displayed on the LED display. I tried flipping the oven shut off valve that is on the pressure regulator a few times but that did nothing. Of note I replaced the over sensor assembly in 9/2009 and it was working great up until today. Any advice on what might be the problem and what I need to do to diagnose it and what parts to replace? Thanks in advance!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: newportprof  The item is a GE free standing range (oven with 4 burners). It was working fine until today when the oven will not warm up at all. The burners work fine. And the digital keypad works fine as well. There are no error codes displayed on the LED display. I tried flipping the oven shut off valve that is on the pressure regulator a few times but that did nothing. Of note I replaced the over sensor assembly in 9/2009 and it was working great up until today. Any advice on what might be the problem and what I need to do to diagnose it and what parts to replace? Thanks in advance! Prof, Does the broil burner work ? You may have a weak or broken bake burner igniter. Observe the broil burner for ignition and operation, Then remove the oven cavity panel (bottom) and flame spreader (if necessary) and observe the bake burner for operation. Let us know what you observe. :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
thanks for the super quick reply!
The broiler function does seem to work. The igniter glows red (the one on the top of oven chamber) and the flames start up and the oven gets warm (obviously).
Now I'll need to let the oven cool down before touching anything inside again. Do you want me to remove and keep off the bottom oven cavity panel while activating the broiler function again to see what happens?
Does the oven have two separate igniters, one for the broil function and one for the bake function?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: newportprof thanks for the super quick reply!
The broiler function does seem to work. The igniter glows red (the one on the top of oven chamber) and the flames start up and the oven gets warm (obviously).
Now I'll need to let the oven cool down before touching anything inside again. Do you want me to remove and keep off the bottom oven cavity panel while activating the broiler function again to see what happens?
Does the oven have two separate igniters, one for the broil function and one for the bake function? Correct, You need to let the oven cool down, Then remove the oven bottom and flame spreader, Then select a bake cycle and temperature and observe the bake burner for operation(should see the same thing occur on the bake burner, as what occurred on the broil burner. :cool: :cool: :cool:
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Sure enough, it looks like the bake burner is not turning on at all. So does that mean that the problem is entirely isolated to the lower (bake) igniter and swapping out that part will entirely solve the problem? If so, I'll order it immediately. Thanks again.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: newportprof Sure enough, it looks like the bake burner is not turning on at all. So does that mean that the problem is entirely isolated to the lower (bake) igniter and swapping out that part will entirely solve the problem? If so, I'll order it immediately. Thanks again. Prof, I'd be 90% sure, that replacing the igniter will solve your problem. If you have access to a VOM / multimeter, disconnect the wires to the igniter, Program a bake cycle and temperature, check for 120 VAC across the two wires you took the igniter wires off of , if you have the voltage then your wiring and control are fine, if not you need to check for broken, loose wires,and a bad control. But, I'm as sure as can be you've got a bad igniter. Part number: AP2014008
:cool: :cool: :cool:
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4
|
Wow you are excellent! Looks like it did the trick. I replaced the igniter today and it's working great. My only screw up is that I dropped one of the old ceramic caps through the holes at the bottom of the oven and after trying to fish it out for 30 minutes I gave up. I hope it won't be a problem down the road! Again, thanks a million for the really EXCELLENT advice. Best to you!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: newportprof Wow you are excellent! Looks like it did the trick. I replaced the igniter today and it's working great. My only screw up is that I dropped one of the old ceramic caps through the holes at the bottom of the oven and after trying to fish it out for 30 minutes I gave up. I hope it won't be a problem down the road! Again, thanks a million for the really EXCELLENT advice. Best to you! Prof, I don't see the wire nut in the bottom of the oven being a problem. What did you use in it's place ? We're glad to hear you're up and cooking. Best to you as well, :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
