Our dishwasher gets stuck at about 5:00 and 9:00 on the dial, and the water doesn't get very hot anymore, just like so many other people have reported. For example, these 2 are great threads:
http://forum.appliancepartspros...p-wash-rinse-cycles.html http://forum.appliancepartspros...sher-cycle-sticking.htmlNow, we have carefully followed through those threads, but our dishwasher is a little different, because the Bosch SHU4022 does not have an NTC, it has a normally open simple thermostat. It does not have a Control Module either, it has a timer.
This is where we are with our testing:
- The heater (
AP2804286 ) measures 12 ohm. Seems good.
- The thermostat (
AP2804285) that is the part used in place of the NTC is indeed open at room temperature. We've not done any tests of how this behaves - not sure how. And its a real bear to remove it.
Flow Switch (
AP2802178) measurements:
-grey/black wire to red wire, 0.5 ohm with button depressed
- grey/black to white wire, button depressed = 0.5 ohm; button up, open ckt.
- white to red wire, 2Kohm, regardless of button state.
So we think this means the flow switch is good, but are not sure.
Thermostat in door (
AP2804281 ) - measured approximately, it seems to change state around 60-70 centigrade. This seems OK. We did not try to run with the thermostat wires jumpered, to see if the cycle completes. Maybe we'll do that once its back together.
Selector Switch (
AP2804338), with Regular cycle
- 1&2 = 13 ohm
- 3&4 = 2 ohm
- 5&6 = 3 ohm
The fact that none of these are open (that is, infinite resistance) implies that the selector switch is OK.
Now, if all those things are OK, then it seems that the only thing left to worry about it the Timer, if you follow through the earlier threads. I can find nothing about how to test this timer, since most other people have Control Modules rather than this simple timer. Since the timer costs ~$120, I don't want to spend the cash only to learn that the problem is not solved. A new bosch bottom-of-the-line dishwasher will only cost about $300 more than the new timer, and this is the second failure in a year (last one was the water flow valve, which was an easier fix that I reported in another topic)
Does anyone have any clues about what we might have missed testing, or how to understand if the timer is bad?
I actually bought the Troubleshooting manual for this, and its no help on the timer question (though it does explain how to remove the base in case we need to go after that heater assembly.)
Thanks in advance for any clues someone can provide.
