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I have a Maytag Electric oven with a double front element (small ring and large) that has stopped working. All of the other elements are working. Is there any way I can fix this myself and does anyone have any idea if it is a switch or the elements? Any help you can provide would be deeply appreciated. Thanks
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Originally Posted by: NCPDDAD17 I have a Maytag Electric oven with a double front element (small ring and large) that has stopped working. All of the other elements are working. Is there any way I can fix this myself and does anyone have any idea if it is a switch or the elements? Any help you can provide would be deeply appreciated. Thanks The most likely situation, is a bad infinite switch. We can direct you to tests and parts needed with a proper model and serial number. The number you supplied is not a model number. (the model number should start with 2 or 3 letters then numbers, then 2 or 3 letters). Get us a good number and we can get you up and going. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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I'm sorry my wife gave me that number..I think it's MER5770AAW. I hope that helps..and thanks in advance for your help,
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Originally Posted by: NCPDDAD17 I'm sorry my wife gave me that number..I think it's MER5770AAW. I hope that helps..and thanks in advance for your help, All Right, We can check the infinite switch for circuits or voltage. You're going to need a multi meter for tests. (I prefer a voltage test) **** BE CAREFUL **** On the switch : (With the wires connected to the switch and power to the range). Terminal # 5 (dbl black wire) 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Terminal # 2 (dbl red wire) 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Across Terminals 5 and 2, 220 volts ac switch off or on. (these are power into the switch, No voltage would indicate a broken/ damaged wire). Power out to the burner element. Turn the switch dial to highest setting and check : Terminal 2A(red) for 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Terminal 1A(tan) for 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Terminal 5A(yellow) for 120 volts to chassis ground. Across terminals 2a(red) and 1A(tan) 220 volts ac. Across terminals 2A(red) and 5A(ylw) 220 volts ac. (missing any voltages would indicate a bad switch). (click here) Part number: AP4092288
If switch checks OK, You'd have a broken wire or a bad element. :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team All Right, We can check the infinite switch for circuits or voltage. You're going to need a multi meter for tests. (I prefer a voltage test) **** BE CAREFUL **** On the switch : (With the wires connected to the switch and power to the range). Terminal # 5 (dbl black wire) 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Terminal # 2 (dbl red wire) 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Across Terminals 5 and 2, 220 volts ac switch off or on. (these are power into the switch, No voltage would indicate a broken/ damaged wire). Power out to the burner element. Turn the switch dial to highest setting and check : Terminal 2A(red) for 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Terminal 1A(tan) for 120 volts ac to chassis ground. Terminal 5A(yellow) for 120 volts to chassis ground. Across terminals 2a(red) and 1A(tan) 220 volts ac. Across terminals 2A(red) and 5A(ylw) 220 volts ac. (missing any voltages would indicate a bad switch). (click here) Part number: AP4092288
If switch checks OK, You'd have a broken wire or a bad element. :) :) :) I/m not sure where the switch is..is it the knob? or maybe you could tell me where to find it Thank you
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Originally Posted by: NCPDDAD17 I/m not sure where the switch is..is it the knob? or maybe you could tell me where to find it Thank you The infinite switch is located in the control panel of the range. The knob slips onto the switch shaft. You'll have to dismantle the control panel to access the switch assembly and wiring. *** Disconnect power to the range first *** When you remove the control knob, you'll see two screws securing the switch to the control panel,remove the screws. Here's a copy of the service manual. The information you need is on page 42 or 2-12 of the manual. http://servicematters.co...ibrary/docs/16010161.pdfThen do the voltage checks I sent you in the previous post. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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why voltage check and not resistance check?
I have a kitchenaid glasstop that first showed signs of occassional burner not turning off when switch turned off. had to repeat switch tunoff to get burner off. Then months later, the outside burner stopped working, the the small burner stopped. Sounds like a switch to me.
I don't want to disable the burner then wait for parts.
Joe
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Originally Posted by: joetiii why voltage check and not resistance check?
I have a kitchenaid glasstop that first showed signs of occassional burner not turning off when switch turned off. had to repeat switch tunoff to get burner off. Then months later, the outside burner stopped working, the the small burner stopped. Sounds like a switch to me.
I don't want to disable the burner then wait for parts.
Joe Joe, I prefer to check voltages, especially on a range, less guessing and a more effective diagnosis. A damaged wire or contact in a switch, can still give a resistance reading,even a correct resistance reading. But it can also reduce or eliminate the voltage to a component, and it won't work. You're probably correct, most of the time, it is a bad infinite switch, but not always. Your diagnosis and repair procedure is up to you, we try our best to assist our consumers, but they have the final decision. :) :) :)
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thanx for the reply. I suppose I can kill the breaker and get at the electronics to be able to read volts.
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Originally Posted by: joetiii thanx for the reply. I suppose I can kill the breaker and get at the electronics to be able to read volts. Yes, Turn the power off at the breaker, dismantle the control panel to access the infinite switches. Look over the wiring and switches for any obvious damage. Turn the breaker back on and conduct your voltage checks at the switches . Be careful, don't shock yourself, these are "live" voltage checks. :) :) :)
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