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I got this Sub-Zero Looking Fridge from Habitat for Humanity. Has worked pretty good for 2 years.
A couple of times the fridge side gets warm. I opened it up and saw the damper (#7914). Just by looking at it I probably defrosted the whole unit.
Lately I have had all the symptoms. Water in the Freezer floor. Iced up roof. Icemaker frooze solid - from dripping water above.
I wonder about the drain up there? Does this model have one? One forum suggested someone have it cleaned out....but said it was hard and I don't see it in any exploded views.
The dial on the timer (part# 7405) is all beat up like it has been dealt with before.
I have read and read and read many forums.
Basically I want to try a new timer. Although I watch mine and it keeps moving. Is it possible to still spin and not give a closure? I hate to think it is intermittent. Can it, or should it be a hard failure?
TWO different supplying companies have a #7405 timer. One for 25, one for 45 dollars (quess which I want?) the 25 is advertised as a 6 hour timer. The other dosen't say. They both have a different ...WRX09xxx Number listed for a Part Number 7405.
WHAT IF my existing timer is a replacement? It says it is a 10 hour, non-ind, 60hz, 1/3 amp.
What might be better 6 hour or 10 hour?
Is there any real Brains or Boards in this older model?
Fridge side hold good at 25-38 degrees. Hard to get colder. The freezer (a 5 normal setting) I keep at 3 1/2 to 4 (warmer) cause it freezes great and I want to under work it of possible.
blah blah balh you ask?
What is the right timer part number? (WRX90 ???) or based on defrost cycles, what to the Pros reccommend. 6hr or 9hr?
Total defrost has brought the unit back 3 times now. I never realized the stress I feel knowing a whole fridges worth of food might (or is) spoiling !!!!!!!!! Try finding block ice now days.
Thanks, PATRICK
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Hi Patrick, The problem with your refrigerator is one of most common problems for GE Monogram refrigerators and has nothing to do with the defrost timer. Remove the top grille and you'll see most of the unit parts. The first thing I would do is clean the condenser coils. Put a flashlight on other side of the condenser and make sure the light goes though the coils to prove it's clean. Such cleaning has to be done at least once a year. You'll see the drain tube between the evaporator box on the left side and the compressor on the right side. You have to remove the end of this tube from the compressor side and blow some air under pressure (the refrigerator must be completely defrosted prior to it) through this tube to clean it. The drain tube Assemble it in the reverse order and turn the fridge "on". Here are the break down diagrams for the GE Monogram refrigerator Model ZISB36DRBGene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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GENE
Thanks. I saw that tube.....Huge! Probably a 3/4" clear tube.
Last time I was up there on top and Vaccuming out the coils and the general area....I thought that was a wierd looking tube.
Now I know, and THANKS.... makes sense.
I WILL blow that sucker out first chance. Blowing it Into the Left, Box side (looking from the front).
So it drains from the compressor into the Box? for evaporation of any condensated water? I did notice residule and rust stains on the "slide out" shelf the compressor sits on. Must be from a past blockage. I will clean that up to keep tabs on new blackages.
I guess as long as my timer is going round and round it is OK. (6hr vs. 10hr) Must be a CAM set-up, and unless a cam breaks off, the opens and closures follow the rotation.
GENE- Thank You, sincerely
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/8/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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OH...and HEY !!
I see Gene you are local to me in OC. I will keep your number on hand and your name in mind for the future !!!!!!!
Thanks Again, Patrick
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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