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I don't get any error codes, but the oven is slow to heat. This has been going on for a couple of months. I thought it was on the brink of dying, and then the problem seemed to resolve itself. Today, however, I tried to heat the oven to 500 degrees and it climbed very very slowly to 470 and then stopped. I can hear the gas cycling on and off with alarming frequency. I also frequently hear a very low-pitched, rather rapidly pulsed sound while the oven is on. It works okay at lower temperatures, and my oven thermometer shows that it is actually achieving the temperature that the oven says it has reached.
Not sure how to troubleshoot this.
Also, the warming drawer trips the circuit breaker any time I try to use it. It worked when we first got the oven but it has been years since I've been able to use it. Not a big deal, but I thought I'd mention it while I'm here.
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Sounds like the problem is a bad oven sensor. The heating element for the warming drawer is electric and it has to be checked for continuity. Very likely there is a short in the heating element or its wires. - The oven sensor Part number: AP2023670
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Gene, thank-you so much for taking the time to reply and to find the part url for me. I will look into that. After we fix the microwave :)
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You are welcome Mary. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Hi Gene - Your colleague Dan seems to think that it is the ignitor? Any thoughts on how to tell which of the two parts is defective? I'm having the same issue myself. Thanks.
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I'm sorry that I don't have anything new to report - we're still working on our microwave (ordered a magnetron that arrived damaged so we've really been delayed). I think our range/oven is 3rd on the repair list so I will post back as soon as I've got something to say :)
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Originally Posted by: hamsandwich  Hi Gene - Your colleague Dan seems to think that it is the ignitor? Any thoughts on how to tell which of the two parts is defective? I'm having the same issue myself. Thanks. What exactly is wrong with your oven? What is the complete model number of the oven? Gene.
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Hi Gene - I have the same model and same issues as Mary McK: Very, very slow to pre-heat to desired temp, if it ever gets there at all. It's a GE XL-44 (According to the serial number prefix, there's a more precise model: JGBP79). I'm trying to figure out if it's the ignitor (as noted in the post that I cited), or the sensor. In either case, I'd also like to know if you think that these parts can be installed by someone with basic tools and technical skills. Thanks!!
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Originally Posted by: hamsandwich Hi Gene - I have the same model and same issues as Mary McK: Very, very slow to pre-heat to desired temp, if it ever gets there at all. It's a GE XL-44 (According to the serial number prefix, there's a more precise model: JGBP79). I'm trying to figure out if it's the ignitor (as noted in the post that I cited), or the sensor. In either case, I'd also like to know if you think that these parts can be installed by someone with basic tools and technical skills. Thanks!! Both parts: the igniter and the oven sensor can be tested by measuring the current drawn by the igniter and resistance of the sensor. The current drawn by the flat oven igniter should be more than 3.2 amps. Otherwise it has to be replaced. The oven sensor normal resistance reading should be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature. Gene.
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hamsandwich - in answer to the question of whether you can work on this yourself, the first question back at you is whether you're comfortable working on a 120V appliance. If you are going to be measuring current and resistance, you've got to do it live. A clip-on meter is the safest approach as opposed to breaking the circuit, but that isn't to say it's safe.
Edited later to add:
have you found the schematic? It should be in an envelope taped to the back of the appliance. It looks like there are actually two ignitors, one for the broiler and one for the oven, and the parts seem to be the same. You could try swapping them and then see if the oven works properly. That is a test you could do without threat of electrocution :)
The caveat is that it isn't clear from the schematic what these parts are - whether they are the round Carborundum style ignitor or the Norton rectangular, and whether they are both the same or one is round and the other rectangular. Maybe Gene can weigh in?
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