Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 12
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I have what I believe to be a stupid question; except, I don't have the answer:) I am having a heating problem with my electric dryer(s). I say dryers because my original dryer stopped heating. I checked every component of the dryer for conductivity/continuity and ran out of things to check. I threw my hands in the air after 2 days of testing and hit Craig's list to purchase another. Brought it home (couldn't test it at the dude's house) and walla, no heat. I returned it and picked up another from the other end of town. The one I picked up today had a 4-prong electrical cord and my outlet is a 3-prong. Switched out the cords and walla, no heat. Question: Actually 3 questions:
1.) Is it possible my 220 is only working off one leg thus, powering the dryer but not heating it up? I'm no electrician so I don't even know if this is possible.
2.) Is it possible I have the two "outside" wires of the wiring harness transposed thus, providing power but no heat? Are these "interchangeable" without frying SOMETHING?
3.) Is it possible I've just got incredibly bad luck and am 3-for-3 on bad dryers?
I don't believe the latter to be the case and I do have a voltage/ohm meter to check other avenues but, again, I'm no electrician and my wife/kids will need to keep me around long enough for at LEAST my pension to kick in:)
Any help would be appreciated and I've searched every thread I can to simply answer this quandry.
Thank you,
MP
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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I would definatly check voltage at the wall,I will bet one of the legs has dropped out. Measure voltage from left slot to ground, should be 120volts, do the same for the other side, post the results
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 12
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I'm using a GMT-19A and I've selected "250" on the DC V side and "250" on the DC10A side while placing the red lead in the where the "prong" would go on each side while placing the black lead on the "Neutral" receptical. I don't get a reading of any kind. My batteries must work because they confirm continuity; however, the needle doesn't flinch when I do the above. What am I missing (aside from a hand-full of brain cells)? Is my setting (on the meter) off? Am I not making connection? Both "legs" can't be burnt because the dryer(s) run. I'm really out of my element (forgive the pun) over here.
Thanks,
MP
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,277
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Hi,
If you have fuses for the house and not breakers then just pop in a couple new fuses and try the dryer again.
There will be two fuses for the dryer.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Your leads probably did not go in far enough to touch the. Do this, pull the dryer out far enough to get to the back, take off the cover where the plug goes into, and take your voltage readings from the terminal block. red to white should be 120volts and black to white 120volts. Make sure your meter is set to read ac voltage.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 12
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It's a dead leg (no reading on one side). The genious who installed the electrical panel didn't label anything so I haven't the faintest of which breaker it is. None are tripped. I can run the dryer and flip breakers until it shuts off the dryer but this won't tell me which one is bad...will it? Am I looking at 2 breakers (110 each) furnishing the 220 or is there one upon which only 1/2 is working? Is the latter of these 2 scenarios even possible?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 12
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I found the breaker. Will post results after replacing.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 12
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My problem boiled down to not being a breaker issue rather, a "broken" issue:) Somehow or another the wiring failed (red leg) from the breaker to the outlet. An electrician buddy of mine and I spent 2 days assessing and addressing the problem. Being that my home was built in the 1960's and the breaker panel/breakers were from the same era, it was impossible to find something that would work within the already over-burdened panel where a 2-pole 30-Amp was called for. After adding a panel, replacing 6 breakers (reducing the load on the existing panel), wiring the new panel to the outlet, and about 24 beers, we finally solved the "problem". Thank you all for all of your help, patience, and consideration. MP
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,277
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Glad to hear you got it repaired. :)
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