[COLOR="Blue"]That is in fact the test sheet I have. [/COLOR]
You sort of lost me. You said in your first post "the schematic shows only 4 wires to the adaptive defrost control, but there are actually 6, and none of the wire colors match the schematic." That is why I tried to find a wiring diagram for a similar unit but with 6 wires to the adaptive defrost board.
[COLOR="Blue"]But I don't know how to tell if the bi-metal strip is closed,[/COLOR]
It should measure 56,000 ohms when frozen, infinite ohms when at room temperature.
[COLOR="Blue"]Do you think the test sheet means I should jumper the test terminal to "close" the bi-metal strip?[/COLOR]
You are not really closing it but you are shorting across it.
In other words if you get into a defrost mode and the heater does not come on, you can use the test terminal to see if the defrost thermostat is the culprit that is preventing the heater from coming on.
[COLOR="Blue"]If so, how do I turn the thermostat on and off?[/COLOR]
Looks like your cold control is a slider, usually moving it to the far left is off.
Easy enough to check if unit is running and you slide the control to off the compressor and fans will turn off.
[COLOR="Blue"]And does this test the defrost control, the bi-metal, the heater, or...?[/COLOR]
If the heater comes on it is OK.
If the heater goes off once all the ice has melted off then the bi-metal is OK.
If both the above check out OK then odds are it is the adaptive defrost board that is shot.
[COLOR="Blue"]I assume the ice cream getting hard was due to the vents getting frosted over, and the freezer staying too cold. The fridge was probably getting warmer at the same time, but I just didn't notice it until later. But my trouble shooting assumes that a properly running defrost cycle keeps the vent door and vents from icing over and plugging up. Is that correct?[/COLOR]
I guess it is possible. My problem with it is if you have a defrost problem the freezer will get warmer not colder.
Read more:
http://forum.appliancepartspros...sting.html#ixzz0wrOPVdbShttp://forum.appliancepartspros.comWhen I tested the defrost heater, I probed the end of the unplugged connector, so I think that was the only circuit I was reading. And I think it may have been either 24 or 42 ohms, so that sounds about right.
Yes it does sound OK