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I've tested the thermal fuse, ignitor and flame sensor. Ignitor reads 66 ohms, and bypassing the thermal fuse still did not get the heat on. Finally tested the resistance of flame sensor, with the wires disconnected, the sensors resistance showed nothing. This was at room temperature. Can I conclude the flame sensor is bad and therefore not providing juice to ignite the ignitor?
Am I missing anything else to check?
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by: krjt  I've tested the thermal fuse, ignitor and flame sensor. Ignitor reads 66 ohms, and bypassing the thermal fuse still did not get the heat on. Finally tested the resistance of flame sensor, with the wires disconnected, the sensors resistance showed nothing. This was at room temperature. Can I conclude the flame sensor is bad and therefore not providing juice to ignite the ignitor?
Am I missing anything else to check?
Thanks. Since you sound like you have some knowledge. Unplug the dryer and take the 2 wires off the sensor, and put the terminal ends together, and put some tape around them, to keep them together, and to be sure they don't hit metal, and then plug the dryer back in and see if it comes on. That way you know for sure. Tom ApplianceEducator.com - Parts
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Great idea. I hotwired the sensor and the ignitor turned cherry red. However I never heard the gas valve click on and no flame ignited inside the chamber. Could this be my coils or am I looking at a bad gas valve. I hope I didn't burn out the ignitor too.
If the gas valve is bad I will have to consider the cost of all the parts. Sensor, coils and maybe the gas valve. That adds up to around 200 plus in parts.
If it is the coils, should I remove them to check for resistance?
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Originally Posted by: krjt Great idea. I hotwired the sensor and the ignitor turned cherry red. However I never heard the gas valve click on and no flame ignited inside the chamber. Could this be my coils or am I looking at a bad gas valve. I hope I didn't burn out the ignitor too.
If the gas valve is bad I will have to consider the cost of all the parts. Sensor, coils and maybe the gas valve. That adds up to around 200 plus in parts.
If it is the coils, should I remove them to check for resistance? I would replace the coils. 95% of the times that will do it. Tom ApplianceEducator.com - Parts
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Ok. Looks like I will be ordering a new sensor and the coil kit... hope that does the trick. Just hope the old unit fires up..
Thanks again.
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Originally Posted by: krjt Ok. Looks like I will be ordering a new sensor and the coil kit... hope that does the trick. Just hope the old unit fires up..
Thanks again. It will. let me know how it goes
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AP3094251 looks like the kit to get? Has both coils. will have to look up the sensor part #.
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My Kenmore is out of date when it comes to this. If you would send me a ele diagram of yours. What I need is the location of the thermo fuse, other parts also, I have the same problem as you, no heat and I dont know where to look to find the parts. I need to start testing like such. dkosiorek@aol.comThanks, Dan
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I just rechecked the unit.
Thermal fuse is good
Igniter has 64 ohms=good
gas coils: 2 coil =1237 ohms
3 coils= 1370 and 556 ohms. I did get a 1920 ohms reading when I used the opposite side of the coil to the middle contact. I assume I was using the wrong "left" side of the three contacts.
Heat sensor was open.. so with that hotwired together, the igniter heated up, but the gas never flowed.
Should I be looking at the gas valve? Besides the two coils, it there any testable parts short of replacement? any vacuum or mechanical parts that needs cleaning?
Thanks.
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The flame sensor works as a switch. When it senses enough heat from the igniter, it opens and reroutes the current through the gas valve coils. It would not do it while it's bypassed. The flame sensor is the culprit. No doubt about it. - The flame sensor Part number: AP2910747
Gene.
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