We have an intermittent problem with our top loading, water saving Whirlpool Washer. Sometimes the clothes are soaking wet after a normal cycle, which then forces us to use the spin cycle to wring out the clothes before transfering to the dryer.

If the washer operates correctly, at the end of a normal cycle, the washer should go into spin and then spray clean water for about 10 secs, then the same water is then recirced back to the top of the tub, and sprayed for about 30 secs in an attempt to rinse the clothes. After that, the spray should stop and the water should then drain out to the sink for about another 90 secs. This should happen 6 times, for a total of 12 min, after which, a final 3 min drain will then end the cycle. The tub should be spinning the whole time.

I've watched this happen by bypassing the lid switch. The matrix on the wiring diagram gives most of these details. But when the washer "acts up", once the recirc is started, it never stops. Clean water gets added every 2 min, but then gets constantly recirced until the whole spin/rinse/drain is complete.

However, if the washer cabinet is "bumped" when it is stuck in recirc, it stops recircing and starts to drain. The new water is added right on time and the recirc then starts and gets stuck until "bumped" again.

I'm suspisious of the timer, thinking maybe the recirc contacts are getting stuck, and the "bump" is enough to release them. I dont think it is the timer motor not advancing the timer, since the cycle does advance. But based on the parts diagram on the web site, I also know that there is a bypass valve that diverts the discharge of the pump to either to the drain, or back to the tub. "Bumping" the washer could possibly be forcing the solenoid of this valve to either pull in or release to the correct state, and then stop recircing and start draining. There is also an pressure switch in the recirc line connected to an air dome, whatever that is, that a "bump" could make or break it's contacts, to allow proper operation.

I hate to just start throwing parts at this until I guess the right one. I'm inclined to think it's the bypass valve. I'd like to measure the voltage applied to it during the spin cycles, but that looks difficult to do, since the washer would have to be partially unassembled and still be able to run. Is that the correct way of troubleshooting this, or just replace the valve, reassemble the washer, and test it out to see if I guess right?