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noticed it stopped with water in the bottom.
control panel has no lights, will not light up when any button is pushed
breaker OK, power to outlet OK
checked thermal fuse, continuity check OK
what next? could it be the control board? hate to get a board without troubleshooting it first... any ideas anybody?
thank you!:confused:
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Originally Posted by: jaxxman206  noticed it stopped with water in the bottom.
control panel has no lights, will not light up when any button is pushed
breaker OK, power to outlet OK
checked thermal fuse, continuity check OK
what next? could it be the control board? hate to get a board without troubleshooting it first... any ideas anybody?
thank you!:confused: This is a live voltage test, so be cautious and don't hurt yourself. On your control board check for line voltage from P2(wht/blu)connector and P6(blk/wht) connector.(door switches do not have to be activated). No voltage, check for open control board bi metal fuse,or broken wire back to junction box on lower frame. Has line voltage, replace control board. Have a good day :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team This is a live voltage test, so be cautious and don't hurt yourself.
On your control board check for line voltage from P2(wht/blu)connector and P6(blk/wht) connector.(door switches do not have to be activated).
No voltage, check for open control board bi metal fuse,or broken wire back to junction box on lower frame.
Has line voltage, replace control board.
Have a good day
:) is that DC or AC volts I'm looking for? I seem to get about 16-17 VDC across P2/P6
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Originally Posted by: jaxxman206 is that DC or AC volts I'm looking for? I seem to get about 16-17 VDC across P2/P6 Sorry, You're looking for 120 volts AC across those 2 pins at the control board. :o
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I get like 24.6 V across those, not seeing the 120, but not seeing zero either
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Originally Posted by: jaxxman206 I get like 24.6 V across those, not seeing the 120, but not seeing zero either You need to check those 2 wires back to the junction box. They are broken or loose somewhere in the harness back to the junction box. There should be 120 VAC across those 2 wires not 24.6. you're sure you have 120 VAC from the wall ? And you have 120 VAC from /at the line cord connection in the junction box behind the lower kickplate and access panel ? You should start at the junction box and work your way back up to the control board connections. :)
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yes, I have 120 from the wall outlet
will have to trace back to the junction box kickplate/access panel
not wanting to pull this all out just yet
thanks for all your help so far!
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Originally Posted by: jaxxman206 yes, I have 120 from the wall outlet
will have to trace back to the junction box kickplate/access panel
not wanting to pull this all out just yet
thanks for all your help so far! FIXED IT! the wires in the junction box were toasted. we have quite a few power surges/brown outs in our area, so i'm thinking one of them got it. interesting that the breaker wasn't blown tho. so once i saw the wires black, i was happy, cuz this is a 0$ fix. THANKS FOR THE AWESOME and QUICK HELP!!!!
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Originally Posted by: jaxxman206 FIXED IT! the wires in the junction box were toasted. we have quite a few power surges/brown outs in our area, so i'm thinking one of them got it.
interesting that the breaker wasn't blown tho.
so once i saw the wires black, i was happy, cuz this is a 0$ fix.
THANKS FOR THE AWESOME and QUICK HELP!!!! GREAT !!!!! No $$$ spent, is even better ... :) :cool:
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