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Model: MDB7601AWS	Brand: Maytag	Age: 1 - 5 years
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ekraterf		#1 Posted : Saturday, August 7, 2010 12:46:20 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 8/7/2010(UTC) Posts: 3		I am having problems with the control panel. At first "2h" would blink and the whole panel was non-responsive. Now the panal is competely dark, no indicators are on, no buttons work. From reading the previous posts i understand that i have to check the voltage going into the control panel but i have no idea how to do that. I have a clamp ampmeater, do I put that around the ribbons? What voltage should i be looking for? Thanks for your help Elizabeth


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denman		#2 Posted : Saturday, August 7, 2010 1:42:24 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638 Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)		Here are your parts Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDB7601AWS Dishwasher - Undercounter \| AppliancePartsPros.com Here is the tech sheet http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/TechSheets_11_17_09/Schematic%20-%20W10111827.pdf And the operators manual which says the 2h will show up for any times cycle times longer than 99 minutes http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%206920186.pdf Also a service manual http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16021814.pdf I have a clamp ampmeater, do I put that around the ribbons? What voltage should i be looking for? You need a volt meter or a multimeter to check voltage. Amp meters measure current though some clamp ons are both. First I would try removing power from the unit for 10 minutes or so perhaps the control board will reset. The unit should be receiving 120 volts AC from the line. If this does nothing Check that the wires from under the unit to the control panel are OK. There has been problems with leaking rinse aid on some units. Check that both door switches are closing using ohms with no power to the unit. Remember to disconnect at least one side of the switch you are testing so that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. I always like to check as much as possible using ohms as it is safer.
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