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Clothes still soaked -- NeptuneTL - still stumped
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""I feel the best way DIY owners of the FAV6800A/FAV9800A machine can understand and troubleshoot dC/uC unbalance error codes is to understand how the One-Way Roller Clutch bearings used in these two machines are designed to work. Did you read in this post Maytag Neptune load unbalance this date stamp 12-28-2009, 11:25 PM “”One last step before you clean up those pesky Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches/bearing.””"Dave, See the link below this explains the principles behind the design of One-Way Roller Clutch bearings. Our machine will use in principle a similiar design in the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Series 10 & 11 machines and the Clutch Pulley Mounted One-Way Roller Clutch bearing In the Series 12 and above. This why I use WD-40 for a bearing wash and recommend Slick-50 One Lube for bearing lubrication. I also recommend your re-lube you new Clutch Pulley Bearing and Upper bearing ring when they arrive. For sure they have been sitting on a warehouse shelf for many years. One-Way Roller Clutch bearing operation and maintenance. Good luck and let us know it goes........Dick
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Thanks. I ordered the bearing and an o-ring for the tub today. For the price of the o-ring, it was cheaper to get it now than risking having to pay shipping later.
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Rank: Member
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part was supposed to ship last Monday (today is Saturday). Called yesterday to check on status --- backorder date was pushed back another 5 days. Yet when I called the first time on the backorder, the part was in the warehouse to be packed up! (I had called the previous week when just the o-ring showed up).
Applisance Pros -- there needs to be some way to decrease your call volume and automate the notification of backorder info.
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Originally Posted by: dprimm  Thanks. I ordered the bearing and an o-ring for the tub today. For the price of the o-ring, it was cheaper to get it now than risking having to pay shipping later. I feel the issue will be with a leaky Tub Seal but the Tranny O-Ring should if and when you decide to replace the Tub Seal be replaced at that time. Dave, I did not see a response to this question.""Was there any indication of water dripping on top of the Clutch Pulley when you removed it?""Also was the Large Wrap SS spring broken? ""If that was the test you were in and observed “” Discovered the agitators move during a spin test. The entire drum is not moving.””……….. I assume the Outer Tub bearings are not seized. If the Wash Basket can be rotated by hand CCW they are not seized………the only way that the tumblers will rotate while motor is rotating the clutch Pulley CCW (the Spin direction) is to have the large wrap spring not compress as the Motor starts turning the Clutch Pulley CCW the Spin direction.With my limited hands on knowledge this can be caused by either parted/broken Large Wrap Spring in the Clutch Pulley housing. One of the two retaining pins is not securing the Large Wrap Spring in the Clutch Pulley housing or the spring loops have been stretched straight because of Outer Tub bearing seizure preventing the Spinner Support from rotating freely in the Outer Tub bearings. ""Was the Large Wrap Spring in the Clutch Pulley Hub OK? If so I'm lost as to how the Tumblers would rotate in Spin Cycle....... not really lost.....just being humble...:)Lube those One-Way Roller Clutches with some Slick 50-One Lube when you get the replacement Clutch Pulley same for the Upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring. Before you lube the new Clutch One-Way Rollers spin the Spinner Shaft Coupler (my name for it) in the bearing assembles and make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW (Wash/Agitate) direction and Lock Up Solid in the CCW (Spin) direction. I hammer this home to Owners/Repair Techs so they can properly diagnose Clutch One-Way Bearing malfunctions in these two TL models.Also spin up your wash basket by hand thru the lid CCW as fast as you can by hand. The wash basket sould coast down to a gentle stop after several rotations. I'm trying to get a feel for the health of the Outer Tub bearings. You will also note with the Clutch Pulley removed or the drive belt removed the Wash Basket will now also rotate CW.Sorry to hear about the delay on The Clutch Pulley.....$75 flavor correct?Take care and good luck with the project. If you were near Honey Brook, PA I would loan you a Clutch Pulley to get you back in svr.......Dick
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I can spin the washer basket both ways without the clutch. Not much resistance on it when I spin it. Seems to spin down at a decent rate.
The spring was not broken. The bearings were extremely seized up.
Is there a slight leak? Probably. Is it something I can deal with myself? Nope. I will have to get help taking the washer out of the room to do more. To do that, I have to take out the dryer.
Honestly, if I can get 2 years out of this thing, I'll be happy. I do an average of 3 loads a week, MAX. Who knows what I'll be doing and where I'll be by then.
$75 clutch is the one on backorder. Thanks for the note on things to check with it. Do I get the Slick-50 at Lowe's? I was going to use bike bearing grease since that is what i already own (and need more of, since I have 2 of them to rebuild this winter).
Thanks
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: dprimm I can spin the washer basket both ways without the clutch. Not much resistance on it when I spin it. Seems to spin down at a decent rate. Good deal the Outer Tub bearings seem in good shape for the amount rust contamination in the Clutch Pulley. Originally Posted by: dprimm The spring was not broken. The bearings were extremely seized up. Now I'm stumped. The only way the tumblers will turn in a Spin Only Cycle or the Quick Spin Test is for the Large wrap sping not to come under tension with CCW rotataion of the Clutch Pulley. You observed that the wash basket did not rotate CCW the spin direction. Maybe one of the retaining pins on the spring end was not seated in the Clutch Pulley. Originally Posted by: dprimm Is there a slight leak? Probably. Is it something I can deal with myself? Nope. I will have to get help taking the washer out of the room to do more. To do that, I have to take out the dryer.
Honestly, if I can get 2 years out of this thing, I'll be happy. I do an average of 3 loads a week, MAX. Who knows what I'll be doing and where I'll be by then. Yep sounds like the best plan for you. Originally Posted by: dprimm $75 clutch is the one on backorder. Thanks for the note on things to check with it. Do I get the Slick-50 at Lowe's? I was going to use bike bearing grease since that is what i already own (and need more of, since I have 2 of them to rebuild this winter). Go with a very light coat of grease of what you have on hand do not pack the bearing with grease. Same for the upper bearing ring. Good luck......Dick
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Ok, so I got the clutch. Got it installed (no idea how to tell if I got it high enough -- machine is still standing on the floor) and belt on. Tried a quick spin test. Spun up to about 30 or 40 RPM and then shut down. Stopped test.
Belt was partially over top of clutch. And bolt that attaches clutch is loose. So I re-installed belt and tighted bolt to snuger. No, I don't own a torque wrench.
Thought the belt was too loose, so I pulled the motor out a little using hand pressure only and tightened up the bolt for the motor.
Tried quick spin test again. No joy. NOTHING!!!!! Did I not wait long enough? Did I overtighten?
How do I know if I got the clutch on high enough? I don't have much left arm strength at that angle to do much more.
Totally at a loss with this thing. PLEASE, more guidance. PLEASE!!!!
Thanks
David
PS I did put a light coating of grease on the bearings.
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The 3/8 inch bolt should be tighten snug no torque wrench required 96 inch pounds lbs or 8 foot pounds. Without tilting the machine back a bit blocked up against the wall or resting it on it the rear panel blocked up to protect the drain line for an improved reach angle the reassembly is more difficult. I have done it several times on my machines but prefer to lay the machine down or place it on my lift table. I understand your very tight wash room setup. I’m going to paste in step 6. from Maytag Neptune load unbalance. 6. Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required). One you have it seated and the drive belt back on the Clutch Pulley spin the Wash Basket CCW the spin direction. It should be able to spin with very slight resistance. If it does spin CCW with very light resistance then do the Quick Spin test again and see if you spin up thru the RPM ranges to 85. for 850 RPM. Your limited wash room space makes for a difficult reassembly. I'll hang in as long as you do......Dick
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GOT IT WORKING!!! So I took the clutch back off. Thing was locked up tight! Somehow, I knocked the white piece loose and things got tweaked. Took it apart, things ok, and put it back together. Before I'd removed the clutch, I saw how to seat it up into the tub.
Got it back together. Hint for replacing the belt: put it OVER the top of the clutch, then put it onto the motor. Simply walk the belt down onto the side of the clutch as you rotate everything.
Tried it again. Everything worked! YEA!!!!
Dick, could not have done this without your energies. Your posts and photos were the only resource I found online about how to do this.
So very nice to be able to do laundry at home!
Dick, if you can use my old clutch, PM me an address and I'll happily send it to you.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 460
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Dave,Glad it worked out for you. With limited space to work this can be a challenge but you saved yourself some $$$ for you efforts. I would keep an eye open for any wash water collecting on the Clutch Pulley. The Tub Seal in my opinion is a poor design. I would inspect the Clutch Pulley and re-lube if necessary in a couple of months……I know no joy.Your Clutch Pulley/Upper bearing ring is not to be trusted. Your rusted bearings would be a good test for me. I recently ordered a new One-Way Roller Clutch bearing.http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/One-Way-Bearings/Kit8640 I will PM you with my adr. I will send you the cost for shipping and let you know how pressing in a new One-Way Roller clutch bearing goes. Shout back if there is anything I can help you with down the road. Left Hand Lid Lock with corrosion issues can cause OP,OD,FL type error codes. Don’t ever waste your money on replacing the Right Hand Lid lock. The Left hand Lid lock is the important one. Think I recently responded to a FAV6800A owner about OD error code.Enough of this washer stuff, just got home from work it’s Miller time :D .Good luck with the machine……..Dick
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