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crystal368  
#11 Posted : Tuesday, May 25, 2010 12:44:35 AM(UTC)
crystal368

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Joined: 10/20/2009(UTC)
Posts: 8

Hi all:

Haven't participated in the forums much since Nov of 09 with my original posts.

The megaupload link is alive and well as of this post with 223 downloads.

Approx 6 months since my repair and all is well with my neptune & no leaks! I was worried about leaks due to the use of jb weld but the repair is holding up.

A few replies....untimely as they are..........

Barnaby: yes, i did modify the cap(more like the threaded plug) that screws into the female adapter, simply drilling a hole in the center for the threaded rod to pass through. The bushing was left as is when bought with the 1/2" hole more than big enough(slightly oversized) for the threaded rod.

I agree with your comments about the Tony Tool, way too much $$$ for a homeowner repair job.

Aboonski: Spacer? You mean the white plastic "A" clip shown in lower right corner of pic in post # 4? Maybe there were other spacer that I just don't remeber..lol.:)

My email at indy606@hotmail.com is still active and I have replied to many peeps. I will help where & when I can.

Kudos to all that have completed the repair and good luck to all those that need to tackle the job.
vinny2006  
#12 Posted : Saturday, June 26, 2010 4:16:55 AM(UTC)
vinny2006

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Wow, this looks complicated. How long does something like this take? I am pretty handy and have repaired my dishwasher as well as replacing the icemaker, both solenoid valves and the defrost timer and heater from my jenn-Air products.
NeptuneHelp  
#13 Posted : Saturday, June 26, 2010 4:57:38 AM(UTC)
NeptuneHelp

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Originally Posted by: vinny2006 Go to Quoted Post
Wow, this looks complicated. How long does something like this take? I am pretty handy and have repaired my dishwasher as well as replacing the icemaker, both solenoid valves and the defrost timer and heater from my jenn-Air products.



See Neptune Bearing for information on the new bearing and 12002022 seal kit. You can also rent a special Neptune bearing tool kit that includes use of a 14 minute DVD that shows the disassembly, bearing swap and seal kit installation. There is a 5 minute video clip on the site you can watch the tool in action.

The bearing job can take 1.5 - 5 hours depending on condition of bearings and how much cleaning you do while you have her apart.

Don't forget to replace your door latch wax motor if you have the original one with the brownish color actuator pin.
vinny2006  
#14 Posted : Saturday, June 26, 2010 5:29:25 AM(UTC)
vinny2006

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Thanks for the reply. I think I'll buy it and give it a shot. I did replaced this wax motor 3 years ago. The machine won't spin so I sent out the board to a guy on E bay and he replaced the burned resistor on the board and included a new wax motor. Worked perfect until this loud spinning cycle.


Originally Posted by: NeptuneHelp Go to Quoted Post
See Neptune Bearing for information on the new bearing and 12002022 seal kit. You can also rent a special Neptune bearing tool kit that includes use of a 14 minute DVD that shows the disassembly, bearing swap and seal kit installation. There is a 5 minute video clip on the site you can watch the tool in action.

The bearing job can take 1.5 - 5 hours depending on condition of bearings and how much cleaning you do while you have her apart.

Don't forget to replace your door latch wax motor if you have the original one with the brownish color actuator pin.
caveman823  
#15 Posted : Tuesday, July 20, 2010 5:24:42 PM(UTC)
caveman823

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CRYSTAL368, Thanks for all the information.
I have the bearings and seal on order. I am collecting the parts to make the tool you describe. Most of the stuff is right off the shelf at the big box store. I hope to have everything ready when the parts arrive.
I just need the wooden dowel. You did not provide dimensions. I would like the O.D. and length so I can make one A.S.A.P.
Thanks again.
caveman823  
#16 Posted : Sunday, July 25, 2010 9:07:15 AM(UTC)
caveman823

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I bought the bearings and seal through Amazon.com. The bearings came from Reid Supply ($5.82 & $8. 22) and the Seal from McCombs Supply ($31.95). While I was waiting for the bearings to arrive, I gathered all the parts to make Crystal368’s bearing tool. I could not make a good wood dowel. I don’t have a lath. I couldn’t do a good job of drilling the hole in the center with a drill press.
The hardest part of this job is the bearings, particularly the front (inner) bearing (getting the bearing in and out). Thursday night I got the machine apart and the rear (outer) bearing out. I sprayed penetrating oil on the front bearing and called it a night.
Friday night I was able to bang out the front bearing. I put the front of the machine on the floor. I was able to get better leverage that way. When I tried to install the bearings, the 2 X ½ PVC Bushing didn’t hold up. It collapsed on one side and cocked the bearing. I ended up tapping on the rear bearing to get it started. Then I banged it the rest of the way in using the old bearing and a big hammer. I tried using the Crystal368’s bearing tool to put the front (inner) bearing, but it kept cocking. Each time it cocked, I had to bang it out and start over. The third time banging it out, I damaged the seal. Went to bed.
Saturday morning I went to all the auto part stores in town looking for a bearing. The big chains of auto part stores are useless. Auto Zone could not look up the bearing without the make and model of the car. Advance took forever to find it in the computer. Of course they didn’t have one. Napa knew exactly where to find the bearing. Of course they didn’t have one. Bumper to Bumper didn’t have the bearing with the seal. The next store had it for $60. I bought it. The wife didn’t want to go to the laundry mat.
I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 2-1/8 socket for a ¾” drive and a ¾” extension, to bang the bearing in. To keep the Spacer in place, I bought some ¾ plastic electrical conduit (gray) and a couple of couplings. The couplings have “stop” in the middle to limit how far the conduit can be put it to it. I cut one of the couplings approximately in half. I put the coupling half (without the stop) and the coupling on the end of the conduit. I put the conduit through the front bearing, spacer and then rear bearing. The outer diameter of the coupling fit well inside the bearing bore.
The machine is up and running again. I spent way too much time on the bearings. I imagine the Tonytool would have saved me a lot of wasted time and frustration.
NeptuneHelp  
#17 Posted : Sunday, July 25, 2010 3:52:27 PM(UTC)
NeptuneHelp

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Sure, overall the tony tool kit rental would have saved time as it was developed specifically for the solid door panel Neptune front load washers. See Neptune Bearing for details.

Keep in mind that the tool kit does not draw the front bearing out and you still have to bang it out. The key is to catch the failing bearings before they get too bad. You will notice your machine getting louder in the high speed spin cycle. Eventually, it will sound like a jet taking off...
Shogun  
#18 Posted : Monday, July 26, 2010 7:17:29 PM(UTC)
Shogun

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Joined: 7/24/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks for the reply to my Maytag problem. I'm not sure if I'll tackle it or not, may just let the Maytag repairman handle it! Thanks again.
kgfixing  
#19 Posted : Friday, October 22, 2010 9:46:06 AM(UTC)
kgfixing

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I rented the Tony Tool from neptunebearing.com. I am a novice but determined DIYer and won't do anything outside what requires standard tools. The kit came with instructions and a DVD that pretty much took me directly through the process. I was a bit confused about getting two versions of bearing seals but figured to go with original vs 'revised', as they showed in the DVD.

Putting it all back together, I find that the pulley wheel now tightens down on the drum to inhibit the machine from spinning. On a test everthing works but the motor bogs. I can loosen the bolt and the drum spins freely. I don't think that's how I want to leave it though.

Any experience and advise on this?
jenerikj  
#20 Posted : Tuesday, November 9, 2010 2:35:52 PM(UTC)
jenerikj

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Joined: 11/9/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4

We just got done replacing the seal and bearings on my Maytag Neptune and gave it a test run and a very odd smoke comes out of the hole where the water goes down into the tub. Any ideas? We took it all apart again and wiped up the excess grease and that seemed to help but it still smoked again. Do you think it's burning off to much grease? If you spin the tub with your hand it does move easily.
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