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Kenmore Manual Defrost upright freezer model #253.29711990Symptom: Freezer not getting cold enough. Food started to defrost.The following components have been tested with no problems found: -Temperature control switch -Door switchThe design of this freezer integrates the Evaporator into the shelving and does not have an exposed Condenser.Starting with a completely defrosted freezer, the unit can be plugged in and the compressor will start running. After a couple of hours of running only the first row of the evaporator will begin to frost build ice (this is the row where the small line from the compressor comes in). The rest of the shelving and evaporator coils are not even close to being cold. From researching the web (including this forum) this generally indicates a low Freon condition.I have checked all of the exposed coils and lines where the Freon would run and cannot find any traces of oil.Is it possible that the compressor has an internal leak?Any other thoughts on how I should proceed or to further diagnose the problem?Thanks!!!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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It could be a leak, a weak compressor, or a restriction. The only way to tell is to put gauges on the low side of the system to get a pressure reading. If this is under 5 years old, it may be under warranty.
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Rank: Member
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The freezer is out of warranty.
I'm very familiar with Automotive A/C and I have my own R134 gauges, Vacuum Pump and refrigerant scale.
So here's my question(s):
1. The low side port is a piece of copper tubing that appears to be soldered shut. I know that I'll need to Access Valve to this piece copper tubing. In doing so, I'll loose all the Freon. Or, is there another way?
2. Also can a set of automotive gauges be adapted so they can be used for this job?
Thanks in advance.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You will need a line tap to put your guages on. They make several different kinds, and attach it to the process stub, the stub of copper coming off the compressor. I get mine at Johnstone supply. I don't know if there are adapters for automotive guages
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Do I need to add oil to the new compressor? If so, which port do I add the oil through?
As I mentioned earlier, I’m familiar with Automotive A/C and when replacing a compressor, the new compressor already has a quantity of oil already added and there is a label attached indicating how much oil has been to the new compressor.
Thanks!!!!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You do not need to add oil.
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Rank: Member
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Thank you.
One last question before I dig into this thing.
The new Dryer that I received has a 3/16" OD copper tube at the capillary end.
On the old dryer, the copper tube going into the capillary end is 1/16" OD.
What is the best way to adapt the old 1/16" tube to the 3/16" end on the new dryer? Can I just use piece of 1/8" copper tube as a reducer?
Thanks!!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You can use whatever will work. You can even put in the cap tube, and use pliers to pinch the tube so the cap tube fits snug
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Rank: Advanced Member
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By looking at the pics I would say you have a leak in the system,more then likely on the low side.So the first thing to do is to find the leak and repair it.If you just charge the system, without finding the leak,you will have the same problem down the road...good luck.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Good point abbie, and just to clarify my previous posts, my experiance on these machines is a restriction in the cap tube, or a leak. Like I said on a previous post, to rule out the compressor, you must put a guage on the process stub to find out if you are running in a vacuum, If you are running in a vacuum, you either have a leak or restriction and replacing the compressor will do no good. If the compressor is bad your low side reading will be above 0psig.
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