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So I have been reading through the posts and I have an Ice maker that will not dispence water in the tray. Optics tested ok, jumped the thermostat to start a new cycle and worked except it did not dispense water. jumped the water valve and it sent water to the ice tray.
My refrigerator is a Kenmore elite 106.56689502 side by side.
From what I understand is that the ice maker modual is not sending the signal to the water valve to open and let the water flow to the ice tray. Am I correct? How to fix?
Thanks Mike
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Originally Posted by: foobydoo  Alright Gene old buddy, hold everything. Since this latest test failed I was inclined to think the brand new ice maker unit I bought was defective. I called the company I bought it from and gave them a condensed version of what I had done which in turn led me to believe it was no good. They then told me that strangley enough they had heard this before and they had figured out what the problem was after replacing several "defective" units like mine. Well, turns out that my particular model does not have the metal rod that must be in the down position to work, BUT...this Whirlpool OEM unit and all others like it came from the factory to them with the metal bar mechanism connection in the up or OFF position!! So, after sticking a small crewdriver tip in the hole where the bar would go and turning it 45 degrees ..... ice maker works....a little while later my first batch of ice. Now I have a perfectly good optical sensor and a perfectly good water valve if anyone wants them CHEAP!! Gene, I certainly appreciate all your help, thanks again. Marshal Marshal, I'm speechless! I felt there should be something very simple, but such stupid thing... Well. I'm learning too. I'm glad it's solved! Happy Holidays! Gene.
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Originally Posted by: mnmavery So I have been reading through the posts and I have an Ice maker that will not dispence water in the tray. Optics tested ok, jumped the thermostat to start a new cycle and worked except it did not dispense water. jumped the water valve and it sent water to the ice tray.
My refrigerator is a Kenmore elite 106.56689502 side by side.
From what I understand is that the ice maker modual is not sending the signal to the water valve to open and let the water flow to the ice tray. Am I correct? How to fix?
Thanks Mike Mike, If the ice maker filled with water after you supplied 120VAC to the water inlet valve from a different source, replace the ice maker. Any ice maker repairs have very low rate of success. - The ice maker Part number: AP3182733
Gene.
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Hi Gene, I'm replying to this post b/c I have the almost identical problem as FooByDoo's where I have gone through the diagnostics tests listed in the Job Aid manual for troubleshooting and determined that the ice maker needed replacing, but after installing a new one it still isn't back up and running.
The fridge is a KitchenAid ksra25fkss00 side by side with ice bin in the door, about 9-10 yrs old. The initial problem was that the icemaker was found with the ice mold filled solid with ice and running over the point that icicles were found along the wall and shelves. Even the ejector arm & ice stripper were nearly encased in ice. I had to remove the unit in order to thaw it out. Once thawed, I replaced it and it would not produce ice anymore.
I started with the optics test and I got a steady LED light for 5 sec. meaning relay/optics are OK and the sensor detects the ice maker, so I moved on to the component diagnostics. I jumped the T & H points and got nothing. At that point I assumed the ice maker was broken and ordered a new one (Whirlpool FSP 2198597 Icemaker W10122502).
I installed the new one and after at least 8 hours, no ice production. I repeated the optics test with the new ice maker with the same passing results, so I then removed the water fill tube to make sure that it was not frozen, and it was not. I replace it and moved on to the components test with the same failed results - no harvest cycle would begin. I have also mades sure the optics are clean and have clear line of sight, the manual shutoff slide is in the ON position, and the temp is cold enough. I also checked to make sure the metal bar mechanism connection is not in the up/off position as FooByDoo found in the end.
The one thing I have not been able to test is the VAC due to my multimeter being broken. I am getting a new one today and will test using the N & L points. If I find that I am not getting 120 VAC to the ice maker, what would my next step be? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: wack70 Hi Gene, I'm replying to this post b/c I have the almost identical problem as FooByDoo's where I have gone through the diagnostics tests listed in the Job Aid manual for troubleshooting and determined that the ice maker needed replacing, but after installing a new one it still isn't back up and running.
The fridge is a KitchenAid ksra25fkss00 side by side with ice bin in the door, about 9-10 yrs old. The initial problem was that the icemaker was found with the ice mold filled solid with ice and running over the point that icicles were found along the wall and shelves. Even the ejector arm & ice stripper were nearly encased in ice. I had to remove the unit in order to thaw it out. Once thawed, I replaced it and it would not produce ice anymore.
I started with the optics test and I got a steady LED light for 5 sec. meaning relay/optics are OK and the sensor detects the ice maker, so I moved on to the component diagnostics. I jumped the T & H points and got nothing. At that point I assumed the ice maker was broken and ordered a new one (Whirlpool FSP 2198597 Icemaker W10122502).
I installed the new one and after at least 8 hours, no ice production. I repeated the optics test with the new ice maker with the same passing results, so I then removed the water fill tube to make sure that it was not frozen, and it was not. I replace it and moved on to the components test with the same failed results - no harvest cycle would begin. I have also mades sure the optics are clean and have clear line of sight, the manual shutoff slide is in the ON position, and the temp is cold enough. I also checked to make sure the metal bar mechanism connection is not in the up/off position as FooByDoo found in the end.
The one thing I have not been able to test is the VAC due to my multimeter being broken. I am getting a new one today and will test using the N & L points. If I find that I am not getting 120 VAC to the ice maker, what would my next step be? Thanks! If there is no 120 VAC between the "L" & "N" checkpoints (make sure the probes are at least 1/2" in), remove the ice maker and measure the voltage between the white & black at the plug. Post the results. Gene.
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OK, I'll try that this evening and post back asap. Thanks.
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Gene, zero reading on both the ice maker test points & the b&w harness wires.
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Originally Posted by: wack70 Gene, zero reading on both the ice maker test points & the b&w harness wires. Redo this test with the light switch on the door frame taped in. Gene.
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Ah, I recall reading that now when you helped out FooByDoo... I'll post results as soon as I get home. Thanks.
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Gene, still nothing - 0.00 on both the ice maker test points and harness wires. I tested first w/ the light switch taped closed, then again w/ both the light switch & emitter flapper door taped down. I'm guessing bad optics board?
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