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Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE GLER341AS1 Dryer - Frigidaire Gallery | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Webster/131850600.pdf

First check that you have the correct power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

On your unit if the timer advances in Auto modes it is a good indication that the power is OK.

If power is OK then it could be a bad heater (not unheard of to get a bad one out of the box), a bad thermostat (hi-limit or control), bad timer contacts or a bad fabric selector switch. Best to check these with a meter when the unit is unplugged.

Also every once in a while a centrifugal switch on the motor will go bad.

Best way is a live test.
[COLOR="Red"]Be very very careful 240 volts is lethal!!![/COLOR]

You have to connect to L2 and M1 on the motor.
Probably easier to connect to the M1 side of the heater.
With timer at mid-cycle timed dry you should see 240 volts across the switch.
When the motor runs it should drop to 0 volts.

If you do not see 240 with the motor off then something is open from the motor switch to L1.

It is possible to do this with the drum out of the unit but you have to br quick as running the unit without the drum messes up the air flow and you can blow the thermal fuse is left on too long.