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After the original thermal fuse on my Maytag Performa PYE2000AYW electirc dryer was blown, I replaced it with a new one, but the 2nd thermal fuse was gone within one minute or two. I checked the front blower housing and the vent tube and duct, and could not find any blocking. It seems relatively clean.
I just removed the heating element from the dryer today, and measured its resistence with a multimeter, and got a reading of 0 Ohms. Is it supposed to have at least a few Ohms, and does it mean the heating element is bad? However, I could not find any reason of getting 0 Ohms since I fail to see any shorted circuit or coils touching anything. Should I simply get a new heating elemet?
Thanks in advance for suggestions!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Touch your 2 leads together and you should get a 0 reading on that there new fangled meter. The same reading should be on the element I would say. I use the old school meter. I bet I know what your problem is because I came across this problem before. The terminals on the large high limit that mounts above the heater element may be touching the housing ever so slightly and causing that fuse to blow. Make sure the new one is not grounded to the chassis.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks a lot for the suggestion! After I put in another new thermal fuse, now the dryer seems working fine. So most likely the previous fuse went bad because of some shorting problem. Originally Posted by: SublimeMasterJW  Touch your 2 leads together and you should get a 0 reading on that there new fangled meter. The same reading should be on the element I would say. I use the old school meter. I bet I know what your problem is because I came across this problem before. The terminals on the large high limit that mounts above the heater element may be touching the housing ever so slightly and causing that fuse to blow. Make sure the new one is not grounded to the chassis.
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ALLWAYS test or replace the overload thermostat located on top of the heater. This is supposed to open before the fuse blows!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The new kit comes with 2 limits both need to be replaced. The bottom one although appears to have continuity has failed because it opens at 250F and the fuse blows at 300F . That means the bottom one did not do its job. Be sure to clean all lint and air restrictions associated with this dryer. Or you will be needing to buy another limit. Although it is not recommended that small limit can be reset believe it or not. Slamming it on a hard surface it will reset it.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/14/2008(UTC)
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Indeed this time I did replace both the thermal fuse and the thermostat, and the dryer seems working fine. Last time when I checked the continuity on the thermostat, it showed 0 Ohms so I thought it would be OK to keep it. So very likely it was a bad thermostat that was causing the trouble. Thanks a lot for the confirmation and explanation, SublimeMasterJW! I really appreciate it. Originally Posted by: SublimeMasterJW The new kit comes with 2 limits both need to be replaced. The bottom one although appears to have continuity has failed because it opens at 250F and the fuse blows at 300F . That means the bottom one did not do its job. Be sure to clean all lint and air restrictions associated with this dryer. Or you will be needing to buy another limit. Although it is not recommended that small limit can be reset believe it or not. Slamming it on a hard surface it will reset it.
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