Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GD5RHAXNQ00 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%202255774.pdf

Does anyone know if it has a defrost timer and where it is located.
Defrost is controlled by the main control board, Item 18 in Section 9 of the parts.
[COLOR="Blue"]
THAT LOOKS LIKE A CAR RADIATOR WAS FROZEN OVER ON THE BOTTOM. i THAWED IT OUT AND IT STARTED WORKING FINE AGAIN.[/COLOR]
That you thawed it out and it ran OK seems to indicate a defrost problem.
Though the coils only being frozen over at the bottom is strange. Normally for a defrost problem to affect the cooling the coils must be iced/frosted over to the point that the evaporator fan cannot pull air through them.

[COLOR="Blue"] THE PROBLEM OCCURED AGAIN SO i TRIED THE SAME THING. THIS TIME IT DIDNT WORK THE REFRIGERATOR IS ONLY COOLING TO 56 DEGREES[/COLOR]
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Not do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle (see the tech sheet) till the fans and compressor turn off.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[COLOR="Blue"]
SOMETIMES i HEAR NOISE THAT IS SUCKING THE DOORS SO TIGHT IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO OPEN THE DOORS. I PUT MY FINGERS IN THE DOOR SEAL TO ALLOW AIR TO FLOW BACK IN THE DOOR TO ALLOW THE DOOR TO OPEN.[/COLOR]
Not sure what the above could be.
Check the drain line from the freezer to the drip tray under the unit, perhaps it is partially plugged.