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R lead DMM to R element wire, BK lead DMM to R element term = spike to about 8vac for a quick second then nothing (and vice versa)
R lead DMM to RW element wire, BK lead DMM to RW element term = spike to about 8vac for a quick second then nothing (and vice versa)
R lead DMM to R element wire, BK lead DMM to RW element term while connected to wire = spike to about 8vac for a quick second then nothing (and vice versa)
R lead DMM to RW element wire, BK lead DMM to R element term while connected to wire = spike to about 8vac for a quick second then nothing (and vice versa)
Test either wire to ground 120
Test BOTH wires together to groud 120
So I think my element is only seeing 120, but I'm not positive, to the untrained eye, that would be my guess. Next step, how to remedy.
Thanks so much for your help BTW!
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I lifted up the top and the common (white) wire is married with the ground. Is that normal?
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My meter so you know my options  The married wires I was talking about.  The pictures are also in my photobucket that I posted a couple posts back
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Rank: Advanced Member
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When you are going to measure voltage, the leads have to be plugged in the COM and V points at the meter. When you are going to measure resistance, the leads have to be plugged in the COM and Ω points at the meter.
Set the meter on 600 VAC and measure the voltage between the Red & White, the Black & White and between the Red & Black wires at the terminal block.
Gene.
Neutral with ground is normal.
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I know I have to change the lead position depending on what I am doing
R&W = 120
BK&W = 120
R&BK = -2 - +2
I can grab a different meter tomorrow and retest, but I have never had an issue with this meter before
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I figured it out. In a failed attempt to clean up my breaker box, while converting from a 3prong 220 to a 4prong 220, I moved my ?220 block or double 30 block? over one position, which I guess made it not in fact 220. Move it back to its original position and BK&R read 230. Turned it on and we have heat. So it was my fault the whole time. Thats why I am not an electrician, I am a cell phone salesman and car audio installer!
Thanks Gene for all your help! I really appreciate it!
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You are welcome. I'm glad you found what was wrong and fix it. It was not very simple but you did it. Good job!
Gene.
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Thank you again for your patience and help. I am glad I didn't spend $30 bucks to turn around and put $100 or more into it!
Maybe I can moonlight as an appliance repairman ;)
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really great forum and thread. I have a similar problem. I checked the full list 1.breaker- good 2.220v - good 3.thermal fuse - good 4.heating element - good 5. thermal cut-off - bad ( no continuity ) thermal cut-off, the part number was 3977393, I was given a 3977394 as a replacement, it appears this was not the correct replacement part, so I may need to order the correct one. Even with the wrong part the dryer worked for a little while and then no heat again. I checked the 3977394 and again there was no continuity. What could cause the thermal cut-off to go bad? ( I'm assuming too much heat, anything else? Also the Thermal cutoff 3977393 (#9 on the diagram) appears to come with a High-Limit thermostat but I don't see where it is located on the diagram for the TEDS840PQ1. Bulkhead parts, optional parts (not included) replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS840PQ1 29"electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.comIf this High-limit thermostat is bad could this be the reason for the Thermal cut-off to go bad too? thanks again. j
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The thermall cut-off kit with the Part number: 3977394
is the correct part number for this dryer. Both thermostats from this kit must be installed at the same time. The high limit thermostat is shown as #15 on the diagram. One of the most common cause for a dryer overheating is a restricted air flow through the dryer exhaust line. It has to be cleaned all the way through its outlet at least every other year. Gene.
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