The first thing that I check is the flame sensorIt must have continuity. If it is open the gas assembly will not work. If that proves to be ok then the next thing to look at will be the ignitor. If it is open then the gas assembly will not operate. If this is ok, then the next thing I would check would be operating thermostats(inside door under filter), and High limit mounted on rear wall. The fuse obviously is not blown because the dryer still runs.I would remove the drum and inspect the rollers idler and belt. I would clean any lint from the cabinet. I would make sure the outside vent is open. Checking the components on the dryer are pretty much an easy thing. All the safetys have current or power running through them. Find the one that has failed or is Open. That will be the problem but it will not be the final solution. Without cleaning the dryer that part will pretty much fail again right away.All during the cycle as you know the dryer clicks on and off when applying more heat. This flame sensor takes a real beating. The contacts in it eventually burn up. That is probably the culprit. Of course if even a tiny bit of lint should get on the ignitor, then a hot spot will result and the ignitor will be toast. If you have to replace the ignitor be careful. They break when you breathe on them. Do not touch the corborundum filement or the ignitor will burn out quickly.Dropping the ignitor would be a big no no.

Okay, we continuity: flame sensor, thermostat (only have 1) and ignitor. Ignitor doesn't look damaged/broken, it is all intact. If we remove the ignitor will we continue to have continuity? Also, we have turned dryer on and looked through a little hole in the front (has a plug in it) and do not see ignitor getting red/hot. Now what?

we had continuity while the ignitor was installed, should we have continuity when it is out? Also, do you think my local appliance store can check it?

New ignitor didn't do the trick, but replace the thermostat and the fuse and now success. Thanks for the help