Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Power problem, we lost the neutral wire to the house. The board was clearly fried near the bottom, below relays. With the new board installed still no sign of life / light. Checked 3 of 4 TCO, Bottom–Closed, Hood-Open, Cavity-Closed (thought that would be the charm). Using manual for 1400/1600 series (found in another thread & looks pretty close to schematic in cabinet) which notes MGT TCO on neutral line so fan & cook top light would still work. Any ideas? Is the "smart board’ part of the PCB (which is what I thought I replaced #AP2025946). Thanks in advance!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
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Did you check the in-line fuse?
Did you check for 120VAC at the power outlet? Try to plug it in a different outlet.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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Yes, verified the outlet had 110V & fuse OK, all good! I have done further tracing and verified w/ OHM meter that all 4 TCOs are NO & NC as expected. Also I just completed checking out the keypad, all keys are functional to the point of they have continuity when pushed & are open when not depressed. I have traced the power side of thins from the hot prong on plug up to the back of what I think is the main relay on the back of the PCB, All Good! Also traced the neutral from the plug prong back to the PCB (further proof the MGR TCO is OK). What are the chances the replacement PCB is Bad? It seems to be my only option at this point. As I said, I cannot get the any of the lights to go on or exhaust fan to run. I did get the cooling fan to run when I jumped out the Hood TCO, but that looks to be external from the PCB. Thanks for help. In reading many of you threads, we home fixers are very lucking someone with all of your experience is willing to share your knowledge. Thanks Dennis!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Sounds like the new PCB is defective.
Call the customer service to exchange the part under the part warranty.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 5
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The 2nd replacement board had the same result, nothing operating at all. Further troubleshooting confirmed I had 120V power to the board and out to LVT, but no low voltage power coming into the board to power keys or display. A new LVT along with a replacement board solved the problem.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I'm glad you were able to fix it. Good job!
Gene.
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