Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 4
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I have a problem with one burner. It starts up fine but after about 5-10 minutes, the igniter starts clicking (and the flame is out which I guess means there is no gas supply). If I don't get this fixed soon, I will be sleeping outside! Any ideas and thanks in advance.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 4
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So after doing a quick search, it looks like this could be a potentiometer problem? Still can't figure out though why it would work for 5 or 10 minutes and then start acting up. The other 3 burners all work fine.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Grant, Most likely the problem is a bad potentiometer but also there is a small chance that the simmer control could be bad too. Thermador redesigned the potentiometer which has to be replaced with the new kit, included both potentiometers and the simmer control module, which should solve the problem in any way. - The part number for the potentiometer kit is AP3872616 Here are the break down diagrams for the Thermador cook top Model SGCS304RWGene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 191
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 4
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So, if the burner starts up right away when cold, the pots are fine and the coil on the solenoid valve is probably bad? I'm going to order a new valve and we'll see if this fixes it!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 191
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Originally Posted by: Grant44 So, if the burner starts up right away when cold, the pots are fine and the coil on the solenoid valve is probably bad? I'm going to order a new valve and we'll see if this fixes it! Yes. The only part the potentiometers play in opening, and keeping the valve open, is passing 55vdc from the simmer control module to one side of the solenoid. So, if current is able to flow through the potentiometer initially then I can't see the circuit opening up mid cycle. To prove that the pot is ok you can swap it with the other potentiometer that does not have a problem. You can do the same to the valve to see if the problem follows it. If so, it's definitely a problem with the solenoid.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 4
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So I replaced the soleniod valve and this fixed the problem! FYI - the original installer tightened up the brass venturis to the point where they were very difficult to remove - in fact I ended up destroying one of them. Thanks to this forum I ended up saving about $200 on my repair bill!
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