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bluenoiseMF  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 21, 2010 11:10:43 PM(UTC)
bluenoiseMF

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I have a Bosch SHU9955UC-12 dishwasher that is about eight years old (I think). It seems the recirculation pump is clogged or weak. It sounds a bit like it has lost its prime, but it does circulate water. It doesn't have enough pressure to spray water more than a few inches out of the lower spray arm. There do not seem to be any clogs before the pump, but there may be one after it. The drain pump works fine. Any suggested fixes?

While I was tricking the door latch into thinking it was closed (so I could see the pump's flow), I messed it up. It won't latch closed now as it just bangs up against the fixed point at the top of the D/W opening. It thinks it's closed even though it won't close now. How do I take access the latch assembly to fix it, too?
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bluenoiseMF  
#2 Posted : Saturday, April 24, 2010 10:46:57 AM(UTC)
bluenoiseMF

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All right. I sorted out the latch issue. I just needed to move it into the 'open' position again.

I've removed the pump assembly and found the turquoise-colored disk with the little pegs stuck in the inlet opening. The beige rubbery disk on the pump shaft turns freely. I gently pried the turquoise impeller disk from the housing and some of the little pegs had broken off. It seems the disk had fused itself to the housing at the opening.

What was supposed to keep that impeller disk from rubbing up against the opening and welding itself to it? Were those little pegs supposed to secure that disk onto the rubbery beige disk? What do I need to order to repair this? There is a little roughness and turquoise plastic residue on the housing inlet, but I don't think it will be a problem if the turquoise impeller is kept from rubbing on it.

Thanks
bluenoiseMF  
#3 Posted : Saturday, April 24, 2010 1:46:31 PM(UTC)
bluenoiseMF

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I ordered a new pump. I would have just ordered the rebuild kit, but the plastic housing is crumbling, too. The total cost of the housing and rebuild kit was close enough to a new pump for me to order the whole thing.

I cannot figure out, though, how to remove the old pump housing (the part connected to the sump and the heater inlet). I have a service manual, but it does not describe the procedure for removing that part. If I pull on the housing, the flexible rubber couplings just bend. I don't want to force anything. How do I get that part out? Will I need to replace those rubber parts when I do this?

This is the part I'm trying to remove: Part number: 935626
bluenoiseMF  
#4 Posted : Monday, April 26, 2010 9:02:44 AM(UTC)
bluenoiseMF

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Does anyone know how to replace the whole pump? I cannot figure out how to remove the rubber couplers that join the pump assembly to the sump and heater. I'm getting rather desperate!

Thanks!
bluenoiseMF  
#5 Posted : Friday, April 30, 2010 9:06:03 AM(UTC)
bluenoiseMF

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A wrap-up:

I was able to replace the circulation pump successfully. Here are some things I figured out along the way. Since I found other posts here asking the same types of questions as I did and also not getting any responses, I hope this will help future repair efforts.

Use a digital camera to take pictures of electrical connections, screws, etc. Turn off the flash and use the camera's macro mode, which is usually shown as a tulip icon.

Use a muffin tin to hold screws and small parts in the individual cups. I wrote notes and step numbers on scraps of paper in the cups. For example, all the screws that secure the door face went into a cup with a note that said, "door face."

The easiest way to get to the pumps and heater is to remove the tub, as described in the service manual. I purchased a PDF one from this site: AllRepairManuals. One thing to note, however, is the steps necessary to remove the tub omitted a key step: Remove the two screws at the base of the rear of the tub, too. The manual only described the screws at the front of the tub. It is also worth noting that the clips that secure the door hinge pivots do not come out with downward pressure from a Torx driver as described. I had to apply pressure outward to the clip while gently prying the U-shaped channel open slightly before the clip would release.

The pump's inlet and outlet are secured by friction and the one-time use hose clamp on the outlet. I cut the hose clamp off and was then able to carefully work the pump from the soft rubber connectors. There was a thin O-ring on the pump's inlet that I transferred to the new pump. I installed the new pump by gently working the rubber connectors onto the inlet and outlet hoses. I replaced the hose clamp with a narrow adjustable one purchased at the local hardware store.

After reassembling the base, the tub, and the door, I connected the water lines and power to test for leaks. After confirming everything worked as desired with no leaks, I put the side panels back on and reinstalled the unit under my counter.

Total cost of the repair, including manual, pump, and shipping was less than $150.
itb76  
#6 Posted : Sunday, September 11, 2011 11:31:14 AM(UTC)
itb76

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Thank you for your post; I'm having the same problem and this was helpful. Only thing I did differently is, the back half of the pump comes off by turning it a quarter turn, after unlatching a tab. That way the hose clamps don't have to come off. Mine is a SHU9915/11, but I believe they're all similar.
terrasharkus  
#7 Posted : Sunday, October 12, 2014 11:39:17 AM(UTC)
terrasharkus

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Super useful information. Wish I had seen this before I replaced my pump. A couple related pieces of information.

In another post, the poster noted that some hoses were brittle with age - and cracked when reinstalling. I had same issue, but forewarned had ordered the two hoses. These are Bosch PN 361113 and 263099 (I have a SHY66C05). You disconnect and reconnect both these when installing the new circulating pump. My 361113 was also brittle and I could not get it reinstalled. Plastic deformed when I tried to reinstall. Swapped for new, which went in like butter. Other hose I did not end up needing.

The one time use hose clamp: this can be reused, but take care not to deform it taking it off. I had slightly damaged mine, reassembled my washer and it leaked from this connection. Then found that my local hardware store did not have narrow clamps, rebent mine to close to original condition, re-installed, and luckily it worked. If I knew that I was going to re-use it, I would have been more careful getting it off.

Totally agree with muffin pan. 10-12 different kinds of screws across the different steps.

Also handy to have a dedicated T-20 torx driver. Had a multi-head driver with torx, but shaft was too fat to fit in opening to remove front kick plate support. Caused me to go to hardware store before getting 5 minutes into the disassembly.

Also another poster had put up the Bosch "Dishwasher Service Training Manual" in .pdf. Search "Bosch dishwasher low pressure". It's one of the post with the longest thread. This plus YouTube videos of the various steps really make the process more do-able.
Beowing  
#8 Posted : Sunday, December 3, 2017 1:16:35 PM(UTC)
Beowing

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Gents,

I am glad they keep these posts open for such a long time, as I just experienced this same problem. I have a Bosch SHE66C05/48, about 10 years old now.

When I tried to run a cleaning cycle the washer would fill with water, but when the circulation pump turned on, the motor would make a humming noise and only a small amount of water would come out of the lower spray arm. The upper arm would not spin at all. When I cancelled the cycle, the water would drain out of the washer as normal. After reading this and other posts and watching a few video's I decided it was time to take the unit apart.

I disassembled the washer and pulled out the circulation pump. Upon disassembly, just like Blue Noise, my pump impeller had come apart and the impeller portion welded itself to the front of the housing. I ordered a new Bosch Circ. Pump rebuild kit #00167085, average price on ******** was $75.

Replaced all the parts, reassembled the washer and whalla, worked like a champ. I have to sat that I never wanted to take the washer apart to that level, but it wasn't that bad, especially if you follow some of the video's on You Tube. I think I spent more time searching the internet to diagnose my problem than I did disassembling and reassembling my washer. But for $75 buck, it is back up and running and I'm sure I will get a few more good years out of it.

Thanks for the help!
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