Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
gehrig44  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 9:53:04 AM(UTC)
gehrig44

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6

Hey All...

I just replaced the Relay Switch on the compressor. The compressor was kicking on every minute and just clicking off after 10 secs or so.

My only concern is that I didn't use the Overload switch thatcame with my kit. If I hooked the new Overload switch up, the wiring would be different than the original.

Three compressor prongs.. the original and current setup is as follows..

White > Top prong
Relay > Bottom 2 prongs
Red > Overload > Relay (connection #1 on relay)

If I used the Overload switch, I would have to do the following.

Overload > Top prong
White > Overload (would have to be soldered on)
Red > Relay (would have to solder again since Red is currently soldered onto both ends of the original Overload)

So, should I do that? A bit confused... the Compressor has been running for a good 20 min now. I am not sure how to test the overload really. I do have a multi-meter and not scare to use it :)

Here is the product that I purchased..

whirlpool 4387535 kit Refrigerator and Freezer Accessories Appliance Accessories - Find great deals, lowest prices, and buy whirlpool 4387535 kit Refrigerator and Freezer Accessories Appliance Accessories at Shopping.com


Thanks for any suggestions in advanced
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
gehrig44  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 11:29:36 AM(UTC)
gehrig44

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6

The compressor has been going for a good 1 1/2 hours now and it is extremly hot to the touch. I lowered the temp controls a bit and it went off by itself. The fan is going at a good rate. I also cleaned it all out. I didn't put the covers back on to help with the air flow though.

At any rate, I unplugged it since I have to go out for a few hours.
Gene  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, April 28, 2010 5:23:41 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
The most important is how the compressor will start, not run. All covers MUST be in place to provide the best airflow. That's why probably the compressor is hot on touch.

I can not verify if the part number you used for this relay/overload kit is correct because the model number you posted is incomplete.

Gene.
gehrig44  
#4 Posted : Thursday, April 29, 2010 4:16:04 AM(UTC)
gehrig44

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6

Sorry about that...

I read in other places that the compressor should get warm at most. Also, that if it gets really hot it might be pulling too many amps.

The complete model # ET20MKXPWR0
Gene  
#5 Posted : Thursday, April 29, 2010 2:21:46 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: gehrig44 Go to Quoted Post
...I read in other places that the compressor should get warm at most. Also, that if it gets really hot it might be pulling too many amps...


This is correct if the cover is in place.

Looking at the picture of the relay/overload kit

UserPostedImage

I do not see why you have to solder anything at all. I believe it's better to install both new parts from the kit.

Gene.
P.S. How does the compressor start now?
gehrig44  
#6 Posted : Thursday, April 29, 2010 3:15:18 PM(UTC)
gehrig44

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6

The compressor starts fine now. I am going to test it tonight to see how hot it gets with the cover on.


The red wire is currently soldered onto the old overload. So, I would have to remove that. It looks like that new overload is supposed to connected to the top prong. The top prong on the original and current setup is connected to the white cable. So, it just doesn't add up to me.
gehrig44  
#7 Posted : Thursday, April 29, 2010 4:34:27 PM(UTC)
gehrig44

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6

Compressor has been going for a good hour now.. Freezer got up to temp very fast, fridge is still getting there. There is warm air blowing from the bottom front (which is good).

I opened the cover and touched the compressor. It is still pretty hot, but not as hot. I can keep my hand on there for a good 5-7 seconds now.
gehrig44  
#8 Posted : Thursday, April 29, 2010 5:50:13 PM(UTC)
gehrig44

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2010(UTC)
Posts: 6

Another quick update.. it appears this fridge is actually made around 1985! So, thinking a hot compressor is almost normal for a fridge that old. Meaning they didn't make them very efficient back then. I might just suck it up and buy a new fridge.
Gene  
#9 Posted : Thursday, April 29, 2010 6:51:48 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
If it's really about 25 years old then your electric bill for this fridge is probably twice or even more higher compare to a new one.

Gene.
Users browsing this topic
Guest (4)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.