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Gene  
#51 Posted : Monday, March 8, 2010 9:21:02 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: mikew58 Go to Quoted Post
In addition to a Whirlpool gas range model #SF362LXST, I have a similar situation that the oven does not heat. I ohmed the valves out. The broiler solenoid ohms out at 197 and the oven is open. Both igniters work. Here's the strange thing: there was advice from one of the Technicians that if one of the solenoids was open, then neither one could work. On my oven the broiler still works, but the oven does not. Do you still think it's the gas/regulator valve that's the problem?
Mike


Mike,

Per the test results you posted the gas valve/regulator is bad. No doubt about it. Is there something else wrong? We do not know yet. Replace this part first and hopefully it will solve the problem.

Gene.
mikew58  
#52 Posted : Saturday, March 13, 2010 9:43:40 AM(UTC)
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Gene,

I replaced the faulty gas regulator valve and that took care of the problem. I ordered the new one from this site and it arrived in two days. But, I do want to say that my broiler alone still worked with the faulty one, which contradicts what was said before about when one goes out, the other one won't work either. Thanks for all your help. I highly recommend the service this website provides.

Mike
Gene  
#53 Posted : Sunday, March 14, 2010 1:33:18 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You are welcome Mike. I'm glad you were able to fix it.

Thank you for the feed back and sharing your repair with us.

Gene.
Oilmon  
#54 Posted : Wednesday, April 21, 2010 3:54:35 AM(UTC)
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What voltage operates the gas valve? I'm having a similar issue. I get 120vac to gnd out of the touchpad board output to both the oven and broiler. But I only get an output out of the "ignitor" board on broiler and not oven. I get 2 pulses ov about 25 v then nothing. At first I thought it was the ignitor board because that seems to control the power to the gas valve, but after reading this thread, I'm leaning toward the valveas it seems to be the most common. This unit's valve has already been replaced twice I've been told!
Gene  
#55 Posted : Wednesday, April 21, 2010 12:36:12 PM(UTC)
Gene

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You may want to check the gas valve/regulator solenoids as described on the first page in this thread.

Gene.
tomjoy1  
#56 Posted : Saturday, April 24, 2010 4:58:03 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hi Jim,

Remove the bottom drawer. Locate the gas valve/regulator with three electrical solenoids terminals on the back of the range. The middle terminal is Common, the upper terminal is Broil and the bottom terminal is Bake. Mark all wires and remove them from the terminals. Check between each solenoid for 216 Ohms resistance (Broil to Common and Bake to Common). If one of the solenoid is defective, neither one will operate and the gas valve/regulator has to be replaced.

- The part number for the gas valve/regulator is AP3866825

If there is nothing wrong, post the results and we'll proceed with further diagnosis.

Gene.

Hi Gene,
Both solenoids checked out at 216 ohms. So it's not gas valve regulator. What do I do next?
Gene  
#57 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 12:53:52 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: tomjoy1 Go to Quoted Post
Hi Gene,
Both solenoids checked out at 216 ohms. So it's not gas valve regulator. What do I do next?


What is the complete model number of the range?

What exactly is the problem?

Gene.
tomjoy1  
#58 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 5:00:42 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
What is the complete model number of the range?

What exactly is the problem?

Gene.

Hi Gene,
Model of Whirlpool Gas oven is SF362LXSQ0 bot 8/4/06. The problem is that the oven won't turn on. When I turned on there was no click. Tried the broiler, it clicks but then does not turn on either. The stove top burners work fine, clock, controls all work fine and have never had a problem. Put in new oven igniter. Still no click. Checked continuity in old oven igniter and it was fine. Checked the continuity in the oven and broiler silenoid as you had instructed, and they both checked out at 216 ohms, just as you had said they would. So gas valve/regulator is fine. Now I need to know how to proceed from here. I'm thinking it's the spark module. What do you think? If it's that, how do I test to make sure that it's the problem? Thanks for your help. Tom
Gene  
#59 Posted : Monday, April 26, 2010 1:24:34 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Tom,

Check for 120 VAC between the wires connected to the J1-6 & J1-4 (at least one wire should be disconnected) at the spark module while the control calls for Bake.

If there is proper voltage, replace the spark module.

If the reading is incorrect, replace the control board.

- The spark module Part number: AP3672576
Part number: AP3672576



If you need the correct part number for the control board, post the color of its face plate.

Here is the Tech sheet.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL SF362LXSQ0 30" Gas Freestanding Self Clean Range Sealed Burner | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
tomjoy1  
#60 Posted : Monday, June 14, 2010 1:30:41 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Tom,

Check for 120 VAC between the wires connected to the J1-6 & J1-4 (at least one wire should be disconnected) at the spark module while the control calls for Bake.

If there is proper voltage, replace the spark module.

If the reading is incorrect, replace the control board.

- The spark module Part number: AP3672576
Part number: AP3672576



If you need the correct part number for the control board, post the color of its face plate.

Here is the Tech sheet.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL SF362LXSQ0 30" Gas Freestanding Self Clean Range Sealed Burner | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

Hi Gene,
I replaced spark module, and oven still didn't work. Then I replaced the control board, and the oven still didn't work. What else could it be? Thanks for your help. Tom
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