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This part usually called "flame sensor" and it's listed among the five parts which must be tested in such situation. This list as well as all other troubleshooting instructions are on the first page of this thread. If the test result showed no continuity for this part, it's bad and has to be replaced. - The flame sensor Part number: AP2910747
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene  This part usually called "flame sensor" and it's listed among the five parts which must be tested in such situation. This list as well as all other troubleshooting instructions are on the first page of this thread.
If the test result showed no continuity for this part, it's bad and has to be replaced.
- The flame sensor
Gene. Got it. Would it possible other parts got broken as well? Can you explain if the voltage on the ignitor doesn't reach 110v, does this mean it is broken? Do I need to test continuity on ignitor itself? If so, how? In order to test timer switch B, should I test the connection with red and black wire in pictures? 
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I have the similar question: If the flame sensor is the culprit, will the ignitor voltage, timer act abnormally as well? Or there is no relation between these. Originally Posted by: c22jrc Glad to find this site!
I'm having the same problem. I've checked the coils, safety fuse both thermostats and all appear good. I measured resistance on the flame sensor at 680 ohms and the igniter at 94 ohms. I checked the voltage at the igniter and it only measured 28 volts. Tracing the wire it came from the motor. Wish I had a schematic!!! As someone else mentioned the timer does not move. The dryer had been running for at least 30 min. we I found there was no heat and the timer had not moved???
Any help greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks
Jeff
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Lets do one thing at a time. You already found that the flame sensor is bad. Replace it and hopefully it will solve the problem.
Gene.
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After installed a new sensor, everything is back to normal.
Looks like timer, ignitor voltage all depend on this broken sensor, the sequence to check the problem is so important, I will keep it in mind.
Thanks a million, Gene.:)
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You are welcome. I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: tom_mn I probably have the same problem as Matt, but I just want to make sure that this issue fits:
Gas dryer, tumbles, no heat , but the odd thing is that even set on a timed dry, like 20 minutes, the timer does not advance. Even tumbling after 2 hours it still reads 20 minutes. Just want to verify that the fuse could cause this problem, too. same problem here is my model #110.74672400 and where is this fuseable link located? please help
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I read through this entire thread. I went through and tested the fuses as suggested. I have a question about how to properly test the Dryer cycling thermostat, L155-25.Should I test all 4 prongs? There were 2 purple wires going to 2 of the prongs and 2 red wires going to the other 2 prongs. When I tested the 2 prongs that hold the red wires it tested fine. When I tested the 2 prongs that hold the purple wires it didn't show any power. In other words, the black circle are on this part has 2 prongs coming out; those 2 prongs have no power. The 2 prongs at the top and bottom of the black area have power. Do all 4 of these prongs need to have power when tested? I am sure my terminology is incorrect as I really don't know what I'm saying or doing. But by reading through this thread I have been able to get this far. :-) Thanks! Lisa
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Originally Posted by: tom_mn I probably have the same problem as Matt, but I just want to make sure that this issue fits:
Gas dryer, tumbles, no heat (venting not cleaned out since 1994), but the odd thing is that even set on a timed dry, like 20 minutes, the timer does not advance. Even tumbling after 2 hours it still reads 20 minutes. Just want to verify that the fuse could cause this problem, too. Could this just be the fuse if so I will induce some kicking of my own butt as well? lol The model number to mine is a Kenmore model# 11066642500 , we just bought a timer to go on it so I am hopeing it fixes it but I dont think it will for some reason.
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Gene,
I have a Whirlpool model # LGN2000KQ0. I have followed your recommended steps in diagnosing my lack of heat and still am struggling to identify the culprit. Currently i have the dryer torn apart and with the gas disconnected i turn on the dryer. I watch the igniter light up only to hear a click and the light diminishes. I can get the igniter to turn again by restarting the dryer. The sound is definitely coming from gas valve assembly area. Possibly the gas dryer sensor? Again, no gas is running thru the dryer at this time. Do you have any suggestions on what might be the issue?
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