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Joined: 3/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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I need to replace sensor on my oven. I have found the part but wonder how hard this is to do myself.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Why do you think that you need to replace the sensor? I have the same model unit ( or very similar ) and after the last cleaning, the display reads F1. The Fan comes on as soon as you plug it in and it shows F1. It resets after about 30 seconds, the fan goes off and the display clears... and then it does the same F1/Fan thing for 30 seconds in an endless loop.
I think that the sensor is bad... but I don't know for sure. The tek guide that was on the oven said to put the temp down to 100deg and get a 2nd code... but the oven resets before I can get it down past 160deg.
I have removed my sensor ( more on that later.. . ) and put an ohm meter on it.. it reads 64.00 K Ohms.... I think that is 64000 ohms and the stuff I've read said that it should be around 1,000 ohms at room temp. I've cooled the temp sensor in my freezer and it went from 64K to 99K... I placed it near some heat.. and it went from 64K to 40K. I'm not really sure what all that means....
I found a replacement sensor on the Internet for $50... that seems kind of pricey for what I've got in my hands.... I'd like more confirmation that my sensor is bad before I spend $50 and find out it's something else.
To remove the sensor... remove power... if you don't... you may die.... pull the unit away from the wall remove the two silver screws from the top left and top right side of the big, silver panel that covers up the back of the unit. on the left side of the unit ( when facing the front... the power plug goes on the right side... ) in the back is a pair of yellow/cream colored wires. There are two sets of holes... they come out from the top set and go in through the bottom hole.... they are loose and can be pulled out from the top hole... gently pull them out and there is a disconnect plug... disconnect the wires be separating the plug. Then go in from the 'oven' part of the range and inside the main oven unit on the left top, is a 6" copper tube that is secured by 2 screws. It is sticking out like a spear... remove those two screws and gently pull it out. The back side will have those yellow/cream colored wires... you'll need to get that connector through the insulation / hole and you'll be all set.
I've got my probe... but I'm not sure if it's my problem or not...
Jack
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Thanks Jack. We did go ahead and figure out how to replace the sensor. Oven is working great. The F1 code indicated the control but we took a chance on the sensor and it worked.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by: Cobbler Thanks Jack. We did go ahead and figure out how to replace the sensor. Oven is working great. The F1 code indicated the control but we took a chance on the sensor and it worked. did you get the F1/FAN/RESET over and over again too? jack
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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The fan kept running with the F1 in the display. We tried cancel then tried to start over and it would kick off and display F1 with fan running.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 3
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Just wanted to post my results. I got a new sensor from a local maytag store... I guess that the maytag and kenmore people share things ( they may even be made by the same group ) and the 74003390 part I needed was supplied by the maytag part: 12001656. I installed it, got my oven back together and it works fine. Before I installed it, I tested it with my ohm meter and it read 1K -vs- the 64K that my bad probe read. The 1K reading was the expected one. I asked the guy if the sensor went out a lot and he said that it must... or he wouldn't stock that part. ;) Maybe the self-cleaning stuff just isn't worth it. ;)
jack
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