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Ohmy360  
#1 Posted : Monday, April 12, 2010 4:35:32 PM(UTC)
Ohmy360

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This dishwasher was installed about ten years ago in a vacation home used infrequently. Possible the washer was only run ten or fifteen times. It has been unused for years but looks new of course. There is no water being dispensed.

Manual washer control starts machine correctly. Motor/Pump runs dry until thermal cutoff: No water is dispensed.

Replaced water inlet valve WD15X10003. 120 volts to valve solenoid present. Water source good. Still no water into tub.

What else can I check? :eek:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 13, 2010 1:32:10 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="RoyalBlue"]Manual washer control starts machine correctly. Motor/Pump runs dry until thermal cutoff: No water is dispensed.[/COLOR]
You should never run this type of pump dry, it can burn out the seals.
I would add a gallon of water to it to see if the pump seals are still OK.

[COLOR="RoyalBlue"]Replaced water inlet valve WD15X10003. 120 volts to valve solenoid present. Water source good. Still no water into tub.
What else can I check?[/COLOR]
Undo the outlet hose at the water valve and blow into it to check if it is clear.
If you have voltage across the valve and water to the valve and still get no water out then I would say that you received a defective valve.

Loosen the input fitting at the valve till it starts to drip just to check for sure that there is water there.

I would also remove the valve from the machine and check/clean the filter screen on the input side of the valve. Could be that when you moved the input pipe/tubing you loosened a bunch of crud that has been growing inside the pipe/tubing and it clogged the screen. Do not permanently remove the screen as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Ohmy360  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 13, 2010 4:38:50 AM(UTC)
Ohmy360

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
[COLOR="RoyalBlue"]Manual washer control starts machine correctly. Motor/Pump runs dry until thermal cutoff: No water is dispensed.[/COLOR]
You should never run this type of pump dry, it can burn out the seals.
I would add a gallon of water to it to see if the pump seals are still OK.

[COLOR="RoyalBlue"]Replaced water inlet valve WD15X10003. 120 volts to valve solenoid present. Water source good. Still no water into tub.
What else can I check?[/COLOR]
Undo the outlet hose at the water valve and blow into it to check if it is clear.
If you have voltage across the valve and water to the valve and still get no water out then I would say that you received a defective valve.

Loosen the input fitting at the valve till it starts to drip just to check for sure that there is water there.

I would also remove the valve from the machine and check/clean the filter screen on the input side of the valve. Could be that when you moved the input pipe/tubing you loosened a bunch of crud that has been growing inside the pipe/tubing and it clogged the screen. Do not permanently remove the screen as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood.

Thanks for the complete diagnostics. Much appreciated. I will go over those checks again. I'm wondering if the float switch might be a problem if it is stuck in the up position, but I do not know how to remove it. Perhaps it will be obvious once inside under the lower rack with my hands.

If I understand your suggestion about the pump I should put a gallon of water into the lower tub and see if the pump moves the water and removes it without leaks. Can do.
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, April 13, 2010 6:31:16 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here is the parts breakdown
Replacement parts for General Electric HDA2130Z07WW Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

You will see the float cover, it is usually held down with a screw.
Also with the kick plate off you can see if the overflow switch is being activated.
Note: If the float switch is the problem you would not see 120 volts across the valve as it cuts power to the valve.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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