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Dryer now throwing breaker but only during heating cycles (fluff cycle doesn't set it off). From what I understand, it means it's not the motor.
Dryer does heat up (until, of course, breaker is thrown).
So maybe it's the heating element (shorted) or maybe the breaker itself. Some people say to replace the breaker first to eliminate that, other people suggest the problem is the dryer itself.
So should I replace the breaker first, or it that really unlikely compared to the chance it's the dryer. If the dryer is at fault, what components should I check (e.g. heating element). Would a faulty heating element cause the breaker to throw, or could the heating element be fine but shorting to the casing? Should I measure the ohms of the heating element?
Thanks so much.
John
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for MDE9316 models | AppliancePartsPros.com[COLOR="Blue"]Dryer now throwing breaker but only during heating cycles (fluff cycle doesn't set it off). From what I understand, it means it's not the motor.[/COLOR] It is unlikely but you motor could be drawing too much juice and once the heater kicks in it is too much draw so trips the breaker. But this would be a long shot. [COLOR="Blue"]Some people say to replace the breaker first to eliminate that, other people suggest the problem is the dryer itself.[/COLOR] I would check the heating element first. [COLOR="Blue"]Would a faulty heating element cause the breaker to throw, or could the heating element be fine but shorting to the casing?[/COLOR] Yes it can depending on how it failed. [COLOR="Blue"]Should I measure the ohms of the heating element?[/COLOR] Yes Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to pull too much current. Note that it can also fail by sagging and touching the case once it is hot so check the inside of the case for telltale scorching or weld marks. When it cools down it returns to normal. |
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Thanks for the help! I pulled out the heating coil assembly. 10.3 ohms across the wires, and open/infinite between each coil end and the housing/case. There is no sign at all of sagging and there are no singe/burn marks on the case. What should I check next? Thanks.
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Thermal fuse and thermostat both read 0.1 ohms (i.e. continuity), just FYI. (assuming these are the ones attached to the heating coil assembly - left side is thermal fuse, right side is the thermostat, I believe).
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Damn!!
I would flip the breaker and check the connections at the receptacle and the units terminal strip. A bad connection can cause it to pull to much current.
Measuring it with a meter might show up something but probably you will not see a low voltage with out the unit on.
I do not know how much experience you have with electrical and so am hesitant to suggest a live test.
240 volts is lethal so you have to be very, very careful.
If you can get your hands on a clamp on amp meter you could measure the units current draw to narrow it down.
Failing that, I would replace the breaker as they are relatively cheap.
Hopefully someone else will jump in with a better way to troubleshoot this.
I hate plug & chug. |
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Great suggestion about the clamp on amp meter. I don't have one but I can always buy one. At this point, I guess I'll replace the breaker and see what happens. Last night I did look at the dryer's terminals and the wires and their connections looked fine. Could be a problem with the receptacle, but I'm going with the breaker for now. Thanks for your help. If I get it fixed(!), I will post the solution here. - John
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Good news. I replaced the 30 amp DPST breaker yesterday and ran the dryer today. I tried it on delicate cycle and it went through the entire cycle without tripping the breaker. I had to run it again for another 10+ minutes to finish dryer and that too completed without incident. Thanks to Denman for all your helpful advice.
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