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My Neptune TL has been acting up for several weeks now, thumping and stopping itself during the wash cycle and also when switching from rinse to spin. I have removed and cleaned up the clutch following instructions posted by dh1200s (very detailed, thank you). But it did not appear to fix it. It does sometimes have problems during spin, almost always at the 12 minute mark when the spin light comes on but it is still behaving like it is rinsing. I am pretty good with mechanical stuff but do not have the equipment to do alot of the electrical testing that I see posted in the forums. Any help would be great (save me from my overpriced lawn ornament!!!)
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Hello stein19,What are the first two digits of your Serial number that is the series number for the machine. It will be 10 thru 17. If your Clutch Pulley used the upper bearing ring it’s a series 10 or 11 from what I have seen. Did your Clutch Pulley use the upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring? “”My Neptune TL has been acting up for several weeks now, thumping and stopping itself during the wash cycle and also when switching from rinse to spin.”” Any unbalance error codes like dC and uC when the machine stops? I would expect a unbalance error code of dC or uC.“”I have removed and cleaned up the clutch””Did you check to make sure when you had the Clutch Pulley apart that the White Bearing plate removed from the Clutch Pulley would rotate CW around the Spinner Shaft coupler freely and lock up solid when you rotate White Bearing plate CCW around the Spinner Shaft Coupler as I described in this post Maytag Neptune load unbalance? If your machine uses the upper bearing ring make sure it will pass the same test as the White bearing plate. If the One-Way Roller clutches do not lock up solid with CCW rotation of the White Bearing plate around the Spinner Shaft Coupler and slip you will get agitator shaft rotation as the Spinner Assembly/Wash Basket spins up. This will cause tumbler rotation that will move the Wash Basket load off balance. The TDS will signal the Control Board of the large unbalance wash tub swings. The Control Board will attempt to re-distribute the wash basket load seeking a better wash basket load balance condition and after a number of attempts will terminate the wash cycle with either a dC/uC unbalance error code. Are you getting those unbalance error codes to the console LED display?If you are then TDS is working as designed and properly signaling the Control Board of the unbalance condition and the Control Board is properly terminating the wash cycle. I feel the root cause is the Clutch Pulley the One-Way Roller clutches bearing are slipping when the wash basket enters a spin cycle of the wash cycle. If you were to stop that wash cycle and enter a Spin Only cycle with that Wash Basket load I feel you would have the same issue and error code out with dC or uC. I feel if you enter a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket the Spin Only cycle would complete. I’ll try to help just need some feedback and be long winded like me. More info is better for me I’m and owner like you and no expert for sure.....Dick
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Thanks for responding so quickly. I have a series 15 Neptune. I did check the white bearing plate and it does rotate freely CW and locks up tight going CCW. I did not see an Upper Bearing Ring so I don't think my model uses one, unless it is up inside the Outer Tub. I do get the dC error code when it finally stops itself. My machine will go through an entire wash cycle without any clothes in it and complete it no problem, of course - nothing to throw it off balance. But where most of the posts I have seen say that theirs is going off balance during the spin cycle, mine goes off balance during the "agitate" part of the wash cycle, before it even gets to the spin cycle.
Most of the time, when it is thumping away, it will get hung up during the rinse cycle ( about 12 minutes to go). The light will turn on showing that it is entereing the spin cycle but the tub turns CW and the tumblers spin like it is still trying to rinse. It will go off balance multiple times until it stops with the dC code. I can readjust the load many times before it will finally finish. When it does this I notice that the drain pump does not come on. I know that it will finish if I hear thre drain pump come on.
When it gets this far and does actually spin, I don't usually have anymore unbalance errors.
I did notice that the Spinner Shaft Coupler has some scarring on it from when it was locked up, but I can turn the white bearing plate easily by hand since I got everything cleaned and lubed. Do you think it is still the clutch/bearings, or is there something else to try?
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“”I did not see an Upper Bearing Ring so I don't think my model uses one, unless it is up inside the Outer Tub.””
Series 12 and above use the second One-Way Roller Clutch bearing integrated into the lower Outer Tub bearing. I just came across this about a month ago on a different forum. Why the rocket scientist on the Maytag design team did this leave me scratching my head.
Normally when the factory 6207 DU Outer Tub bearings go you can replace them with 6207-2RS bearings at least on the Series 10 and 11. I just rebuilt a series 10 FAV6800A machine with 6207-2RS Outer Tub bearings along with the bearings in the Spinner Assembly. The Series 12 and above use this Lower Outer Tub integrated bearing assembly. The upper Outer Tub bearing can be replaced with a 6207-2RS bearing. One part of this Lower integrated Outer Tub bearing assembly contains the One-Way Roller clutch bearing the part number for this assembly is TW0207-2RS….. good luck trying to find it.
I got that P/N from a forum member on another board. His machine is a series 15 also. I have two other FAV6800A’s a series 16 and 17. Both those machine like yours do not use the upper bearing ring. On my series 16 it started with dC/uC errors 1 year ago. A clean up of the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way Roller clutch bearing took care of the issue. As you saw it took care of a forum member on this board.
I feel your lower Outer Tub integrated One-Way Roller clutch bearing is the root cause of your issue. That bearing is probably binding and causing the Wash Basket to rotate CW in wash cycle. The wash basket should never ever rotate CW.
In the agitate/wash cycle the Motor Controller powers the motor pulley to rotate CW rotating the Clutch Pulley CW driving agitator shaft CW driving the tranny to rotate the tumblers only.
In Spin Cycle of the wash cycle or a Spin Only cycle. The Motor Controller reverses direction and turns the Motor Pulley CCW driving the Clutch Pulley CCW spinning the Spinner Assembly CCW which includes the wetted transmission and Wash Basket with CCW rotation. If the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutch bearing do not lock up solid with CCW motor rotation and slips you will get agitator shaft rotation in Spin Cycle rotating the tumblers shifting the wash basket load off balance and big time dC/uC unbalance errors.
I wish you had that problem with the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller clutch bearing…..but you don’t.
I have no first hand knowledge of removing the integrated One-Way Roller clutch bearing in the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly. I would hope that you could simply impact off the 1.75” spinner nut and remove the One-Way Roller clutch bearing. Clean it up reassemble and be good to go.
The forum member I worked with damaged the Lower Outer tub bearing assembly on his series 15 during removal and replaced with a 6702-2RS bearing and some shims to make up for the decreased bearing depth. That was a very solid DIY approach to his issue since the TW0207-2RS Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly was no where to be found. That may work for you if you decide to go forward and try to DIY the fix.
I also feel you have a slight Tub Seal leak that brought on this issue and I would replace the Tub Seal and tranny O-ring at tear down. I would hope a repair person that has replaced the Lower Outer Tub bearings on a series 12 thru 17 FAV6800A or FAV9800A would chime in with any first hand knowledge…..Dick
PM to follow.
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Sorry no PM for this board. E-mail me at dh1200s@yahoo.com I have additional info to large to post.
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I did get it working, finally. The clutch pulley I got from local Maytag authorized parts dist. had the upper bearing ring with it, even though my series doesn't use it, it is not listed in the description and it doesn't show it in the picture. I had them triple check the part number, even get another one off the shelf to compare - they were all the same. The kicker- using that part number only cost $82 but the other part number for series 10 machines that is suppossed to include the upper bearing ring costs $145. I'm not sure why this is like this, maybe there was a service bulletin or something that says to use this part, I don't know. I do know that when I put just the new clutch pulley on, it still acted up. So I put the upper bearing ring on with it and --SHAZAAM!! Worked perfectly. I don't know how I missed it in the forums, but I didn't know that the washtub was not suppossed to rotate during washing action of cycle. After I saw that the tub was not moving, I checked online and found tons of videos of people running their Neptune's through different cycles and mine was doing it right.
I figured that there was something different with the later series', like the special tub bearings. That makes perfect sense. I didn't have any water inside the old clutch pulley, nor anywhere under the tub, so I am hesitant to pull it all apart to check the tranny seal - I can't get to it without pulling out the tub. At least maybe I'll wait until Mount Laundry has been cleared out and things are back to "normal" (2 daughters and 2 dogs that like mud - everything seems to get dirty!)
I would like to thank you for your help, I couldn't have done it without you.
Thanks, Dick.
Another successful mission.
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Good deal and glad to help, it sounds like the Spinner Shaft Coupler was rusted solid to the Clutch Pulley One Roller Clutches in the white bearing plate of the Clutch Pulley. That is the only way I can see the Wash Basket rotating CW in the wash/agitate cycle. Glad it was not the Lower Outer Tub integrated bearing assembly.
All replacement clutches two different p/n's I know of come with the upper bearing ring used on the Series 10 and 11 machines.
I would drop out the Clutch Pulley and re-lube in several weeks and watch for a slight Tub Seal leak.
Excellent work so many owners trash their $1K machine when there is a cost effective fix.
As for the $145 clutch no one has been able to explain to me what makes it worth that amount.
The Outer Tub bearing replacement is a bit more work. If you ever need to replace I have some info that will help.
Again nice job…..Dick
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Rank: Member
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I should have reread the entire post regarding your troubleshooting. My response doesn’t hold water. “”it sounds like the Spinner Shaft Coupler was rusted solid to the Clutch Pulley One Roller Clutches in the white bearing plate of the Clutch Pulley.
You mentioned….. “”I did check the white bearing plate and it does rotate freely CW and locks up tight going CCW.””
Was that check done before any bearing clean up?
Guess we give it the test of time…..Dick
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I am having what sounds like the same "unbalanced" problems during wash & spin with the Series 12.
I'd like to try fixing it myself, but I noticed the link to the Service Manual PDF doesn't work, since you need to be a registered Whirlpool repair person.
Any advice? Thanks!
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Rank: Member
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Click on my user name and download my v-card it has my e-mail adr. I have typed out many sections that may help you............Dick
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