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ib768  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 24, 2010 5:48:46 PM(UTC)
ib768

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So, I've been looking around for info on this problem I've been having and I'm hoping you folks might be able to help. I have a Whirlpool Estate dryer, model TEDS840PQ0. It's coming up on being 5 years old. About 6 months ago, it started acting weird. It would shut off part way through a cycle (I would usually put the timer on somewhere in the middle on the autosense setting as opposed to straight timed drying) and the timer would just stop moving. At first it would fire right back up if I spun the timer and turned it back on, but it kept happening more frequently. I did some experimenting, and after a while I determined that the dryer would not start at all if the timer was in any of the areas on the timed drying setting, but would usually run fine if I put it on a higher dry setting of the autosense. Most times it would shut off at least once if not a couple times while I was trying to run a load through, but would always fire back up. About a month ago, it stopped working almost entirely. It will start about 25% of the time on the no heat section of the timer, but shuts off almost immediately. It won't turn on at all on either the autosense or timed drying sections of the timer. I have confirmed that the fuse is fine. Do you guys think that the problem is the timer, or is there other stuff that I should check? It's a decently expensive part so I'd hate to replace it in vain. I've pulled a service manual for this thing and have torn it pretty well apart to check things, but I don't have a great starting point for further troubleshooting. Any thoughts or assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 25, 2010 4:18:35 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS840PQ0 29"electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL TEDS840PQ0 29"electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Does sound like a timer problem.
If you look at the wiring diagram and timing chart you will see that the BK-BU contacts in the timer are the main motor power contacts.
Unplug the unit.
Set it to a mid cycle.
Remove the wire from one contact lug at the timer. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Then measure across the contacts.
Should be 0 ohms if not the timer is toast.

I would also check the motor windings as bad contacts can cause low voltage at the motor and this is very hard on the motor.

If you decide to try the following be very careful, 240 volts is lethal!!
If you have electrical experience and feel comfortable working with electricity.
You could:
Unplug the unit
Short the BU-BK connections at the timer.
I would also remove one wire from the heater and tape it so it cannot short to anything. Running without the drum in place stops air flow over the heater and you could blow the heater fuse when testing. This will stop that from happening.
Tape the door switch closed.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.
If it starts up you know the timer is the problem for sure.

Alternatively if you have the unit back together you could just unplug the unit, short the contacts/lugs together on the timer and give it a try.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
ib768  
#3 Posted : Thursday, March 25, 2010 4:30:09 AM(UTC)
ib768

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Thank you very much for the info and insight. I'll take a look at it and test those wires either tonight or tomorrow night. I do still have it all torn apart, so it shouldn't take long to find out. Thanks again and I'll let you know the results!
ib768  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, April 6, 2010 3:03:13 PM(UTC)
ib768

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Good evening! It took me a little while, but I tracked down a multi-meter and ohmed this thing out tonight. For better or worse, the timer appears to have checked out properly. As you said, I removed one of the wires (the black one, in this case) from the timer and then measured across the two lugs (the black[bk] and blue[bu]). With the timer in the off position, it read a 1. With the timer kicked on in any of the cycles, it read 0. So, I would assume this is a definite that the timer is fine and not the issue, correct?

I know you also suggested checking the motor windings. I fired up the Googles, but couldn't come up with good info on what to check for. Any additional info or suggestions would be much appreciated.

I did find one link on some testing procedures, anything in here seem applicable to my problem?

http://www.fixya.com/manuals/w1..._various_test_procedures

I don't know if I'm down with shorting the thing to get it to run. I mean, it sounds like a good time and all but I'm not known for having good luck and I'd find a way to eat those 240 volts for sure.

Think I should break down and find a repair dude to check it out? Better than air drying, ironing everything, and the occasional trip to the laundry mat!

Thanks again for the help.
denman  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 7:22:03 AM(UTC)
denman

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First it looks like I did not give you the correct link to the wiring diagram so here it is
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528190.pdf

[COLOR="Blue"]With the timer in the off position, it read a 1. With the timer kicked on in any of the cycles, it read 0. So, I would assume this is a definite that the timer is fine and not the issue, correct? [/COLOR]
From your description I would say you are correct.

[COLOR="Blue"]Think I should break down and find a repair dude to check it out?[/COLOR]
Perhaps this would be the best as your problem seems to be difficult to trouble shoot.

The problem you described where it will only start at certain areas on the timer does point to the timer but it checks out OK.

There is one proviso on this. If you set the timer and then it runs for a while then shuts off and will not start so you start playing with the timer and it starts running. It could be that in this scenario it has nothing to do with the timer.

It could be that the motor is overheating and it's internal thermal protect trips, it then has to cool down before the protect resets. This is when the unit will not start and when it resets and starts it is just a coincidence where the dial is.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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