Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
wortonmt  
#1 Posted : Monday, April 5, 2010 7:12:55 PM(UTC)
wortonmt

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/5/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

I have a Whirlpool dishwasher model number GU1500XTLQ1. It seems like the water isn't getting hot enough - dishes don't dry completely, leaves a soap residue mainly on plastic dishes, and overall doesn't clean well at all. Tried different detergents, for the quality of cleaning and the residue, but this obviously would not change the fact that the dishes will not dry. Around the time this started, I pulled a melted chopstick off the heating element that had fallen down below. I'm not sure if this caused the heating element to go bad or not. I called sears and it was sugested that it might also be the thermal fuse. The person I spoke to was a parts person and admitted that they really didn't have the technical skills. So that really didn't help much. I read on the internet that I could test the heating element with an ohm meter, and as long as the meter wasn't at infinity or zero, the heating element is probably ok. I don't know if this is true, and I definitey don't know how to test the thermal fuse. Any recommendations?

Thanks
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 6, 2010 1:50:25 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GU1500XTLQ1 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf

Yes, it could be the heater or it's hi-limit thermostat.
The heater should measure approximately 20 ohms (see the tech sheet)
The hi-limit should read 0 ohms.
Note: Always disconnect one side of any device that you are measuring for resistance (ohms). This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

If both are OK then you may have a broken wire or a bad control board.
Could also be a bad thermistor, if your unit has one.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
wortonmt  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 6, 2010 8:08:13 AM(UTC)
wortonmt

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/5/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

It doesn't look like you think that it is the thermal fuse. I will check both things that you suggested and let you know what it was, by the way i will definately order parts from you as you are cheaper than what i have seen, not to mention more helpful! Thanks for you help.
wortonmt  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, April 7, 2010 9:37:38 PM(UTC)
wortonmt

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/5/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

Ok it has been years since I have messed with a multi meter in High School. So forgive me for being rusty, but I had to adjust the settings to 2000k and then I got a reading of 1853 on the heating element, so I am thinking I have way more resistance then the 20 ohms that you mentioned. I didn't even bother testing the hi-limit that you sugested as I believe I found the problem. Unless you feel that I should go further with my testing, I will just order the heating element that you sugested in your reply to my first post.

Thanks again,

Tom
denman  
#5 Posted : Thursday, April 8, 2010 1:19:39 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Yes it sounds like you found it.
I would also check the high limit also since you are in there.
Also short the leads together just to be sure the meter will read close to a 0.

Perhaps the following will help with your meter use.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
charlie h  
#6 Posted : Thursday, April 22, 2010 5:31:52 PM(UTC)
charlie h

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

is it true if you take the element out you have to replace it
if so how would you test the element with out taking it out
denman  
#7 Posted : Friday, April 23, 2010 12:37:57 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Never heard of that.

In any case if using a meter you do not have to remove the heater from the unit.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
charlie h  
#8 Posted : Friday, April 23, 2010 3:54:48 PM(UTC)
charlie h

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/22/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

i saw that on some other site
so is there a spot to put my tester with out taking it out or i should take it out ,and what am i looking for with the tester
thanks for your help
LaCheby  
#9 Posted : Thursday, August 7, 2014 11:48:36 AM(UTC)
LaCheby

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/7/2014(UTC)
Posts: 1

I have the same problem with my KichenAid dishwasher. Do you have the Tech Sheet for my model?

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf

Yes, it could be the heater or it's hi-limit thermostat.
The heater should measure approximately 20 ohms (see the tech sheet)
The hi-limit should read 0 ohms.
Note: Always disconnect one side of any device that you are measuring for resistance (ohms). This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

If both are OK then you may have a broken wire or a bad control board.
Could also be a bad thermistor, if your unit has one.
denman  
#10 Posted : Thursday, August 7, 2014 11:10:00 PM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
LaCheby

Please see the attachment.
File Attachment(s):
KUDP01.pdf (971kb) downloaded 14 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Users browsing this topic
Guest (5)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.